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Our first speaker was Mark Honigsbaum, whose talk was entitled
The Fever Trail, after his book of the same name, which documents the
discovery of the Cinchone tree (Cascarilla), which was found between 4,000
& 10,000 ft up in Ecuador. This tree provided the cure for malaria
and was brought back to Europe and then planted in other malarial regions
of the world such as India and Indonesia.

Mark’s slides however showed us a trip he made to Ecuador in April
this year. He travelled into the mountains with a guide following an old
treasure hunter’s trail for seven days and a distance of around
30 km’s. His scenic photo’s reflected this stark area that
the sun hardly seems ever to penetrate, the mountains seemed to always
be covered in cloud. As well as the scenery he showed us the revered grave
of an old treasure hunter, where today’s treasure hunters leave
an offering.

Our second speaker was Toby Green whose talk was entitled Travels
in West Africa to Senegal, Guinea and Guinea-Bissau. Toby’s mission
had been to find the Marabout, who are shamens and charm makers who can
reputedly make you invisible with their ju-ju magic! Toby’s slides
were not for the squeamish as they depicted what goes into the making
of the charms, such as parts of black cats and used funeral shrouds.

Toby heard of cases where these charms were used to cure snakebites,
but this did not stop him coming down with malaria! His pictures showed
us the regions green valleys, volcanic cones and waterfalls and scenes
of village life including millet pounding and tea making. We saw a photo
of a “Magic stone” these stones miraculously come back to
the same place even if removed; this has resulted in dead straight roads
taking diversions around them.

Toby did finally meet a Marabout who for a price would make him invisible,
but he wouldn’t divulge whether he managed it, we’ll all have
to read his book, “Meeting the invisible man” to find out.

The next London meeting will be on the June 8th (the second Saturday
due to the golden jubilee bank holiday weekend). Speaking will be Peter
Eltringham — Travelling in the Maya World and Mary Russell
— Travelling around Syria, digressing to Baghdad.

London meetings are held at The Church of Scotland, Crown Court,
behind the Fortune Theatre in Covent Garden at 2.30pm the ussualy onfirst
Saturday of each month. There is no London meeting in August, but we will
be back on Saturday 1st September. For more information, you can contact
the Globetrotter Info line on +44 (0) 20 8674 6229, or visit the website:
www.globetrotters.co.uk

Where is it? South of France, on the Med

Why would I know it? The French Connection? The Count of Monte
Cristo? Beautiful people in the south of France?

How do I get there? It is possible to fly direct, alternatively,
get into Paris, by plane or train (Eurostar from the UK) and take the
train a grand vitesse (TGV) to cover the 700km from Paris to Marseilles.
It only takes 3 hours!

What’s it like? Old, the Phoenicians landed in the natural
harbour around 600BC, had a bad rep with drugs and immigrants from French
immigrants. Nice harbour with cafes, a castle and a large cathedral on
the hill.

Is it safe? Well, it’s a lot different from the image projected
by the French Connection! No, seriously, like all big cities, you stick
to the good areas at night – there’s been a lot of money pumped
into the city to do it up and make it a really attractive place these
days!

What’s there to do? These days, it’s got good shopping,
vibrant nightlife, try out the bouillabaisse (fish stew), get a tan, mix
with the “beautiful people”, eat well, try out good bars,
visit the ballet or the opera, buy some soap (seriously, a Marseille speciality!)

Take the ferry to the Château d’If, (famous from the Count
of Monte Cristo) from the quai des Belges, otherwise, wander around the
Vieux Port, shop, eat, drink….

Would my mother approve? Um, take her shopping, then for a good
bouillabaisse, keep her away from the railway station, then, yes!

OK, when should I go? It’s a bit windy with the Mistral
during February and March and also October and November. Otherwise, any
time, but maybe avoid August – it’s almost national holiday
time.

Hello Globies!

June 1st is our next meeting. A timely and interesting topic; Afghanistan.
We will NOT have a July meeting due to all of our summer travel plans
and the July 4th holiday. Hope to see you June 1st.

See below for a glimpse into Jason's adventure in Afghanistan.

Travels in Afghanistan August 2000 and August 2001 by Jason Florio When
I journeyed to the Taliban controlled region of Afghanistan in August
2000 it was by default. I was on my way to Kashmir when I got a call to
join a journalist colleague who said, “This [Afghanistan] is where
it is happening”. In August 2001 my Afghan journey to the North eastern
region was fuelled by a need to complete a picture of a divided country.
The North eastern area of the country under the control of the Northern
Alliance (who opposed the Taliban,) was a Shangri-la compared to the Taliban
held region where I constantly felt a great sense of general and personal
paranoia (I was arrested by the Taliban Vice and Virtue police for taking
pictures of a football match, and then being accused of spying by their
military). I wanted to experience Afghan life without the confines of
the extreme Deoband form of Islam practiced by the Taliban.

My first attempt to cross into the Northern Alliance region (2001) from
Pakistan by horseback, disguised as an Afghan woman in a head to toe burqa
failed. After subsequent weeks of waiting. I finally made it in after
landing a flight on an Russian made Northern Alliance helicopter crossing
from Tajikistan into the Panjshir valley, the lair of the legendary “Lion
of the Panjshir”, Commander Massoud. This idyllic valley is the gateway
to the north, and who ever controls it controls the region. Being allowed
to roam freely and shoot photographs without the constant monitoring of
the Taliban was liberating. Working closely with the Afghan Ministry of
Foreign affairs, I was granted permission to photograph on the front line
at Bagram as well as deep in the Panjshir valley where multi-national
Taliban POW's were held. In addition, I also photographed girls'
schools (non-existent in Taliban territory) and fighters en route to the
front line.

While waiting for the Massoud interview I was promised by the Ministry
upon my arrival, I headed deep into the mountains with five Kalashnikov
carrying mujahideen fighters to find the Kuchi nomads. After twenty-two
years of fighting in the country, their life style had changed very little.
They were still camel-riding transients who showed they were virtually
immune to the effects of the war by crossing through the frontline without
hindrance from either side. The Kuchi we encountered greeted us with open
arms, until one of them thought I was trying to photograph his wife. We
were then asked politely to leave in the form of a group of young nomads
palming rocks at us. Before heading to the sandy wastelands of the northwest
and eventually onto our UN flight back to Islamabad, we finally were granted
audience with Massoud, “The Lion of the Panjshir” met us in
his fortified bunker office and gave us forty -five minutes to interview
and photograph him.

Within a week of returning to NYC on Sept the 5th, commander Massound
would be assassinated by Al Qaeda operatives posing as journalist, and
the attacks in the US would indelibly link the US and Afghanistan, finally
giving the Afghan “Silent Majority” a world voice.

New York meetings are held
at The Wings Theater, 154 Christopher Street (btw Greenwich St and Washington
St), to the right of Crunch Fitness, in the Archive on the first Saturday
of each month. Meetings start promptly at 4:00pm and end at 5:30pm. $10.00
for non-members, $8.00 for members.

Who, you might ask? William Speirs Bruce, let’s call him Bruce,
may not be as famous as other Antarctic explorers, such as Scott and Shackleton,
but he certainly did his bit for Antarctic exploration!

Bruce was from Scotland and headed up the Scottish National Antarctic
Expedition 100 years ago. Bruce wanted a place on Britain's “Discovery”
expedition – which was ultimately to be led by Scott, with Shackleton
among the crew, but he was snubbed by the organisers, who took so long
to make a decision on whether to include him or not, that Bruce made his
own expedition. Bruce was actually an experienced whaler, and he had already
been to Antartica and had spent almost a year at the meteorological station
at the top of Ben Nevis, (cold, brrrr!) training himself in the methodology
of recording weather and climate. So, really, Bruce was the best qualified
person to be on any Antartica expedition with all his polar experience.

But by launching an alternative expedition to the one he’d been
waiting to go on for so long, he annoyed the wealthy and powerful Sir
Clements Markham, of the Royal Geographical Society. So Bruce raised funds
from the wealthy Coats family of Paisley, near Glasgow, and set off on
the voyage he dubbed the Scottish National Antarctic Expedition. He took
a converted Norwegian whaling ship, which he named the Scotia. Unlike
Scott, he had no interest in a race to the South Pole – his priority was
to do original scientific research. The aim had been to establish a scientific
research station on the continent, but bad weather prevented that.

Instead, they set it up on a sub-Antarctic Island, called Laurie Island,
where scientists are still working today.

David Munro, president of the Scottish Royal Geographical Society, in
Glasgow, said: “Bruce began to believe that polar exploration was
becoming more of an adventure than a science and it was only the science
he was interested in.

“From that point of view the expedition was a huge success – they
discovered several hundred miles of previously unknown Antarctic continent,
collected a wealth of geological and biological specimens and when they
came back, published six volumes of scientific reports on their results.”
Bruce even took a photo of a Scottish piper dressed in a kilt serenading
a penguin on the ice! Apparently, the idea was that they were going to
play it jigs, strathspeys, reels, slow marches, etc, and see if the penguin
had any reaction.

Some people say that it is because Bruce’s expedition was so well
run, that this is why so few people today have heard of him!

The last Ontario/Toronto GT meeting was held on Friday, May 24th; members
Ray & Inge Bates spoke on “Six Months in Asia Following 911”
and Dan Ramrose spoke about “Five Months' South American Adventure”
and Paul Webb gave a talk on “Eight Weeks in Ghana”.

We are planning our annual GT picnic this summer. Proposed dates include
one weekend in July or the beginning of August. The location could be
at Meaford (on Georgian Bay,) at Vera Blowers' place or Toronto Island.
To be advised when arranged, so stay tuned – we just hope the weather
improves a little bit.

Bruce Weber has just left for a month-long trip to Vietnam and the Philippines
and he is planning to tell us all about it in September.

For information on Ontario meetings, please contact: Svatka Hermanek:

shermanek@schulich.yorku.ca or Bruce
Weber: tel. 416-203-0911 or Paul Webb: tel. 416-694-8259.

Meetings are held on the
third Friday of January, March, May, September and November. Usually at
the Woodsworth Co-op, Penthouse, 133, Wilton Street in downtown Toronto
at 8.00 p.m.

Koh Samui Airport, Thailand is good. No doors here! This has to be one
of the prettiest airports around. Liz, England

Koh Samui, The most tropical airport ever! The most beautifully in all
Thailand:

Sukhothai…I could live there 🙂 Greetzzz Erik Jan, The Netherlands

A site recommended by Erik in the Netherlands, identifies good and bad
airports around the world to sleep over night. Canadian Donna McSherry
has put together a brill web site called http://www.sleepinginairports.net that
allows people to make comments on which airports are good (and bad) for
sleeping in. Donna has allowed us to show which airport web contributors
feels is the best airport to sleep in:

Best Airport – Hands down, the Best Airport Award goes to Singapore's Changi
airport.Unless the Singapore airport were to burn down, it is
and will remain the reining mother of all airports that airport sleepers
simply MUST visit on their sleeping travels. Airport sleepers worldwide
will be brought to tears of joy when they find out all the wonderful amenities
available. Several contributors have raved about this airport and I am
almost inclined to travel to Singapore, just to camp out in the airport.
Best of all, it is comfortable, safe, quiet (so quiet in fact that students
study there during exams) and there's even a karaoke bar. One other
fun fact about this little piece of heaven is the signs all over the airport
that read ” no pets, no skateboarding, no smoking and no studying”.
Check out the Singapore Changi web site before you
go.

More from Donna next month with the runners up!

Write in and tell us your best airport nominations! the Beetle!

The next Texas meeting will be completely open: please come and talk
about your favourite place, travels, anecdote or listen to others!

Congratulations to Christina, Chair of the Texas branch of Globetrotters
on her new job on the San Antonio Riverwalk. Because of this, please note
that Texas meetings will start one hour earlier, at 2pm and not 3pm.

Meetings are held at 2pm at the New Braunfels Public Library, 700
E. Common Street in New Braunfels, Texas. The meeting ends at 5 p.m. If
you would like to continue travel talk on a more informal basis, we plan
to adjourn to the Hoity-Toit, a local New Braunfels establishment. If
anybody would like to enquire about meetings or help Christina, please
contact her on: texas@globetrotters.co.uk

Due to technical hosting problems, we are going to run last month’s
travel quiz again for those who did not receive last month’s Globetrotter
e-newsletter.

Win a copy of a map and guide of Scotland, courtesy of Harper
Collins who make this excellent series of map/guides.

1.The Cairngorms includes some of Scotland’s highest peaks. What
stone are they made from?

2.Which Scottish city, on the northeast coast of Scotland is connected
with the oil industry?

3. What is the name of Scotland’s oldest University – and
the current place of learning of Prince William?

4.In which county is Balmoral Castle?

5.Which polar explorer had a ship called the R.R.S. Discovery?

YourName:

Your e-mail address:

This is East London's famous Sunday morning market that has been
trading for more than two centuries. In Elizabethan times, the market
was called Hog Lane, because this is where pigs were sold. The Sunday
market grew out of observance of the Jewish Sabbath on Saturday. Amongst
the bargains hanging up on the rails were second hand goods, hence the
expression 'hand me downs'.

The name of todays’ market is derived from the petticoats that
French immigrants used to sell in the area, but in 1846, the horrified
Victorian authorities renamed the street Middlesex Street as it was deemed
improper to have a street named after ladies underwear. However, it was
too late and the original name stuck.

Prices are rarely shown, so you should bargain with the trader for the
best price, particularly if you're paying with cash. There is said
to be over a thousand stalls spread over Middlesex Street, Wentworth Street
and surrounding roads. The market is known for its cut-price fashion clothes,
fabrics, jewellery, china, toys, textiles, household gadgets and electrical
items. At the Aldgate East end of the market, there is a large area devoted
to leather jackets. Frying Pan Alley', is at the opposite end of 'The
Lane' close to Liverpool Street. It got its name from the ironmongers
who used frying pans to identify their premises.

The founder of the AMSTRAD Computer business and Chairman of the Tottenham
Hotspur Football Club, Sir Alan Sugar began his career as a Petticoat
Lane Trader. His earnings in 1999 totalled some £9.45 million.

Middlesex St, E1. Open Sunday 9am to 2pm Wentworth Street also open Monday
to Friday 10am 2.30pm Nearest Underground Stations – Liverpool Street
& Aldgate East.

Next month: Portobello Rd

Greetings from Guatemala! Yes, the South Amercing Circuit is finished
and our overland is finished. Hopefully everyone who left Caracas over
the past few days got home to their various destinations and I just wanted
to let you know that I got to mine. The last two weeks of the trip were
very relaxed, except for the aquaplaning outside Maturin and the theft
of my lovely hammock from a beach camp. We (passengers, drivers and truck)
suffered minimal damage from the first event and the second was sheer
stupidity on my part as I had been warned. Apart from these excitements
the last days were spent on beaches, packing (and re-packing) my bags,
getting a little sunburnt and wondering where the time had flown to. It
seems no time since I was excitedly joining the truck in Quito, and 31,203kms
and many tears and laughs later, I was in Caracas and waving the truck
goodbye.

Moping, however, is not allowed so…yesterday I flew off to Guatemala,
via Panama, and got here in one piece, tired, hungry and really excited
to be on my own again. (that doesn't mean I don't miss you all!)
Found a nice hotel and am spending a couple of days getting my bearings
before I start some more Spanish lessons. I am hoping to go out to Lake
Atitlán to do these and will let you know what I decide. Antigua
is gorgeous and a real gem, if a lot touristy. As I will be here a number
of times over the next couple of months I am trying not to go shopping
and be sensible with the spending. Difficult for me!

So, that's the state of things. All is well and I am just enjoying
being here. Get back to me if you get the chance – email is cheap and
easy here.

Thanks Jacqui and keep us posted! If anyone would like to contact Jacqui,
her e-mail is: jacquitrotter@yahoo.com

What have you seen on your travels? Drop a line to the Beetle!