Vacation Dreams

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  • Write in (3)

    This year I received quite an unusual Christmas card from Myrna & Gene, who I’d met whilst sailing aboard the Soren Larssen in the Pacific Ocean – they related some of their latest adventures and I thought I share some of them with you, as there’s plenty of travel related detail in what they had to say. The Ant!!

    As we were in South Africa at Christmas, our greetings to all of you are a little late! We were gone from mid-Oct. until the end of Jan. sailing as crew from Madagascar to Mozambique through part of the Bazarito Archipelago and on to Maputo, the capital of Mozambique before heading to Richards Bay & Durban in South Africa. The sailing vessel we were on was a 40′ sloop named “Juno” captained by Tom Hildebrandt, who had been on the boat since he bought it in Australia in 2004. School teacher Frances from San Francisco joined us in Madagascar and participated as crew until we reached Maputo. We helped with all manner of jobs whilst on board – from sailing the boat, scrubbing decks as well as the sides of the boat, stood watch, baked bread, cook meals, washed clothes in buckets on deck and helped with repairs as directed by the skipper.

    On a small boat quarters are cramped, water is at a premium and mainly used for drinking & cooking, refrigeration is very limited and provisions are shopped for & brought to the dinghy and taken to the boat at anchor. On boats there is always something breaking down…just in the time that we were aboard “Juno” the boom broke off the mast, the windlass for bringing up the anchor chain quit working, the water intake plugged and the engine overheated & part of it melted! As a result we stayed tied up to the wharf in Richards Bay for a month while most of the major repairs were made. During this time Gene and I took off for two weeks to explore inland. Lyn from Malule Safaris took us to some wonderful nature reserves and escorted us personally through Hluhluwe Imfolozi Park, Dumazulu Cultural Village, the greater St. Lucia Wetland Estuary & Reserve and Kruger National Park. We saw white rhinoceros’s, elephants, giraffes, zebras, wildebeests, cape buffalo, hippos, crocodiles, nyala, duikers, water buck, warthogs, baboons, monkeys, hyenas, elands, steinboks, lions, leopards, and a great variety of birds. We also went up to the pinnacle at Blyde River Canyon to see the spectacular view from what is called God’s window. The day after our tour was completed Lyn took us to the farm where she grew up to meet her mom and dad and they invited us for Christmas dinner. What a treat!!!

    We spent 6 days and nights at Imhambri Lodge in Meerensee which was a delightful place to stay. From here we were able to walk to the Methodist Church close by for a Christmas carol sing-a-long and a potluck Christmas morning service. They truly made us feel welcome. Back to the boat by the end of December and after two weeks we reached Durban, where we again were able to tie up to the wharf. Here we made friends with a number of the other yachties and were able to take real showers at their club. We also took a couple of day tours – one to The Giants Castle in the Drakensburg mountains to see the San bushman rock art paintings from thousands of years ago and the other to explore historic Pietermaritzburg & Howick Falls. The big thrill was to be zip lined on a canopy tour over the Karkloof falls and forest – what a ride harnessed and zipping along on the cable to eight different platforms.

    Picture (Myrna & Gene Ginder): Nervously getting ready!!

    Picture (Myrna & Gene Ginder): Gene in action!

    Picture (Myrna & Gene Ginder): Nervously getting ready!!

    Picture (Myrna & Gene Ginder): Gene in action!

    We decided to get off the boat on 16th January and caught the backpackers Baz Bus to Capetown, where we had a marvellous eight days in Cape Town and then two days in Simons Town on the beach. Our spots visited list included the top of Table Mountain in the Cable Cars, a winery tour and walk through the Kristenbosch Botanical Gardens. There are frequent power outages in Cape Town and one night the tourists in the cable cars had to be rescued by the Search & Rescue team by crawling out the hatch on the top of the car and then being lowered down in harnesses & ropes to safety far below! Eating conjured up a number of good restaurants – my favourite being “Mama Africa” where I had crocodile kabobs and Gene had springbok steak! Our last two days were spent near the beach at Top Sails lodge in Simons Town where The Boulders National Park, spending a delightful day on the beach with the penguins, protected by the large boulders so the wind which always blows wasn’t quite as strong.

    Love and have a very happy New Year! Myrna and Gene


  • Welcome to the February 2008 eNewsletter !!

    I realise that in my first edition I spoke of starting with six publishes a year… I have had good encouragement from a band of regular contributors and positive feedback from readers– this has led me to believe I can up the pace a little. However I’m not going to get all complacent because I need to immediately apologise to Chris Hampden for losing his article “Spotlight on… Hampden’s travel blog”, from the January edition. Somehow it went missing from the draft and failed to make it into the final publish !! Anyway read away and leave Chris your thoughts on his blog…

    A sadder task is to note the death of Sir Edmund Hillary, who died on 11 January 2008. Many of you will have read a range of obituaries, some like the UK Guardian newspaper’s http://www.guardian.co.uk/obituaries/story/0,,2239122,00.html which painted a broader picture of his life or some like the BBC’s version, http://news.bbc.co.uk/go/em/fr/-/1/hi/world/asia-pacific/3740536.stm, which focused his Everest achievement. I didn’t know the man but like many I’m fascinated & envious of the being first to top of the world, and I was quite touched as the Royal Geographical Society observed a minute’s silence at the following Monday night lecture. Do any of you have any stories or anecdotes about EH that you’d like to share… on what you send me, I’ll try to include the most original ?

    And what are your travel plans for 2008… Which destinations are firing you imaginations, causing you to spend hours surfing the internet or reading guide books & maps ? And why are you choosing these destinations – what is the attraction ? Let me know your thoughts & plans… if you need some additional help, we can provide via the eNewsletter. One such person who is after travel advice is Eleanor – see Write in (1)… in small groups by Eleanor H Borkowski for her requests.

    Another person on the move is Tony Annis – long time and very active member of the Globetrotters Club ! Tony is organising a trip to Brazil this July and is potentially looking for a few more adventurous people to join his very individual & very local tour. As to what his trip is about, well in his own words:-

    “Basic idea London to Rio de Janeiro, a couple of days in Rio before setting off to Brasilia to change planes to arrive Rio Branco in the State of Acre. The next day pick up air taxi to Marachel Thaumaturgo. Across the river is The Ashaninka College of the Forest. A few days there (Festival on the 24th July). Moving on down to the village by canoe – around the village and further up river for the more adventurous to a water fall (a couple of days camping under the stars in the forest). Back in Rio de Janeiro by 6th August and free time or I take you to sample some of Rio’s fantastic night life ( Not expensive).”

    I understand that the three plus weeks of a unique insight into Brazil is likely to cost in the region of £2000 and will include international flights from the UK and most accommodation. Talk to Tony at tony@annis.co.uk for more exact details and the chance to join in something quite different.

    Hot of the press – Walking the Amazon : the world’s largest and longest river !!

    Ed Stafford & Luke Collyer’s aim to be the first men to walk the length of the Amazon unsupported and unguided. I think that these guys are tops this month for adventurous travels in 2008,so far ! Enjoy their experiences of their journey at www.walkingtheamazon.com and who knows maybe when they return we might be able to welcome them to a London Branch meeting to share more of their time & what they found. Hopefully in the next eNewsletter I’ll be able to print more details of the launch party and the guy’s progress…

    Enjoy your eNewsletter and keep feeding back on what your read…

    The Ant


  • Mac's Travel Reminiscences

    MacMac is still not very well but is still e-mailing strong. In this month’s Globetrotter e-newsletter, he writes about American Samoa, his friend Frank adds some of his reminiscences about British Samoa and other random thoughts on travels that we love to hear about.

    Sending picture postcards to self. For a while when travelling overseas I would go to a department store or cheapest place to buy picture postcards or go to travel bureau and see if they hand any free ones.

    I would usually put down name of cheap budget place I stayed and how much and anything else I might forget and would have the foreign stamp on card date etc. This was before e mail. Unfortunately I wrote so small on some of the cards that I can’t make out what pertinent information I wanted to save, but here’s some notes that I made that I can read.

    Apia Western Samoa, November 20 1978. Stayed first night at Hotel Tiafu US $19.26 and then moved next door to Appian Way Nala US $11.6l. The owner of the budget place was the sister of a famous sister that owned a more famous more expensive place in Apia.

    In WWII Michener met this sister and supposedly got the idea for one of his characters in his South Pacific tales. Anyway, my landlady told me of a trip she and sister took to Rome to have an audience with the Pope (one for the public.) A friend of mine here in Washington DC who was a travel agent had booked an around the world trip for one of the officials in Western Samoa and had asked him to look after me. Mr Pinata Ah Ling, ex member of Agriculture.

    He took me to beautiful government sponsored Hotel Tusitala (teller of tales) and then across the island to a beach where some of South Pacific was filmed etc. We passed cattle under Coconut Tree project. Samoans dressed in white carrying bibles were on the way to church where they sing beautifully. I was told Samoa has the most churches per capita of anyplace on earth including Rome. There was a new brewery operated by a German brew master. Valima (pure water,) was the name of Robert L Stevenson’s home on W Samoa.

    Later while on my own a laughing Samoan policeman told me that Samoans consider it discourteous to drink or eat while walking. He was not reprimanding me but using this piece of information to open up a conversation with me. An American was running the Returned Serviceman’s Club instead of a Samoan veteran. To keep club open, they took in associate members that had not been in the service. He told me that he taught the children of man that befriended me and that this gentleman was dying and that is why he took a trip around the world and why so much of his conversation was about religion and how we should all try to get along. I am glad I got to meet him. If you write picture postcards to yourself write more legibly than I did.

    Frank, also an American retired serviceman adds to Mac’s e-mail: British Samoa was one of the finest places in the Pacific. I was there from December 1942 to May 1943, then went to American Samoa to June 1943 next to Wallis Island French Polynesia and then in October 1943 back to American Samoa for one month, then to Maui until January 1944. I left there and went to Marshall’s for combat etc.

    British Samoa was a great place. Frank explains that the woman who ran the expensive place in Apia was Aggie Grey. She was the girl friend of MG Charles F. B. Price, CG of Samoan area. He used to send his PBY, (airplane) over Apia to bring her over to his place in Am Samoa.

    I still speak a little Samoan. It came in handy in early 90’s when I was working in Hawaii. A lot of Samoans live there. When they found out I could speak some Samoan they couldn’t do enough for me. I like British Samoa better than any place I was in WWII. When someone died, there would be a feast and I would go out to the village Luemwinga, can’t spell it, that is a phonetic version. It was about two miles from airport. If I heard the drums being beaten, they actually were hollowed out logs, I could tell which were from Luemwinga. I would go out to the village and go in the bush and shoot a couple pigs for them. I always made it to the feast. I was sort of adopted by the village. Have never been back to British Samoa but have passed through American Samoa several times, last time in December 1999. I could tell you many tales about the place…

    Mac is a huge fan of Lew Toulmin who wrote book The Most Travelled Man on Earth wrote about a rare British (Scottish) Medal, The Order of the Thistle which is granted to only sixteen distinguished Scotsmen, making it the probably the most exclusive order in the world.

    In one chapter of his book, he wrote about the last Japanese soldier hiding out in Guam – seeing Guam the hard way, living twenty eight years in a hole. The ironies of his situation are amazing. While Yoki crouched in his cave, planeloads of Japanese tourists arrived every hour delighted to sun themselves on Guam’s beaches just miles from his cave.

    Within nine months of his return to Japan he married a younger woman. They took their honeymoon where many Japanese couples do – on Guam. His call up letter in Japan had read, “Leave home as if you were going out for a stroll. Do not pack. Do not say goodbye to your family.”

    Nearby Johnston Atoll is a chemical weapons facility southwest of Hawaii and run by the US government and Raytheon. The only way to really see the island is to get a degree in chemical warfare and join Raytheon.

    One time I wrote a fan letter to a deal lady that travelled on her own in China and wrote book I Never Heard the Temple Bells. She answered that she was leaving that morning driving to California.

    Another interesting nugget: I read somewhere that Paul Warren of Pitcairn Island descendent of Fletcher Christian has two necklaces that include nails from HMS Bounty.

    If you would like to get in touch with Mac, he is happy to correspond by e-mail when he is well. His e-mail address is: macsan400@yahoo.com


  • Write for the Globetrotters monthly e-newsletter

    If you enjoy writing, enjoy travelling, why not write for the free monthly Globetrotters e-newsletter! The Beetle would love to hear from you: your travel stories, anecdotes, jokes, questions, hints and tips, or your hometown or somewhere of special interest to you. Over 14,000 people currently subscribe to the Globetrotter e-news in over 150 countries around the world.

    The Globetrotter e-newsletter is completely free and you do not have to be a member of the Globetrotters Club to receive this. We are a not for profit organisation, run by unpaid enthusiastic well travelled volunteers. We are not affiliated with any commercial organisation. You will not be spammed as a result of receiving our e-newsletters and we do not sell, give or share our e-newsletter or membership list with anyone. Recommend a friend by clicking on: Join up for the free Globetrotter e-newsletter

    Write for the Globetrotters Club e-newsletter! To see your story in cyber print, e-mail the Beetle with your travel experiences, hints and tips or questions up to 750 words. If you have photos, we can include up to 6 good quality JPEGs, and let us have a couple of sentences about yourself. Please contact: Beetle@globetrotters.co.uk


  • Review of The London Daily Telegraph Adventure Travel Show January 2007 by Globetrotter Roving Reporter Tony Annis

    New regime, new management, new ideas! Only taking over the show from last November, so how did it work out? Did they rejuvenate it or did they blow it?

    The Photographic competition exhibition was gone, bad news – good news the sound system was much improved in all the talk areas. Travel lecture open theatres, did well for Nomad and even attracted more audience. Not so good for lectures using slides but I’m told made little difference for the ones who used digital presentations. Travel Advisor Stand, with some of our members and committee members

    Amongst Gap year, and the sports adventure stands were others that believed in sustainable tourism; in fact, now a days all companies say they believe in this type of tourism; some I believe more than others! Dragon Overland, Queensland and even Gap for grown ups, were among the many exhibitors.

    Wanderlust Magazine, Editor in Chief, Lyn Hughes led from the front by not only by having her large stand but also by putting her travel Advice Theatre next to it and importantly kept the sides covered to concentrate attention on her speakers and it worked very well in her case.Dick Curtis

    The Globetrotters Club had their own Travel Advisor Stand, (see picture left with some of our members and committee members) a little bit more out of the way than usual but it received many visitors and I hope new members. Personally I spoke to several who said they would check out the web site and think about joining. Dick Curtis who runs the London Globetrotter meetings (see photo below right) as usual did sterling work and organized everything with the new management. The members and committee covered the three days, each of them with an expertise in some part of the world or other.

    Guys and girls from Adez fruit juiceGuys and girls from Adez fruit juice kept us supplied with cold juice which made up for the fact that food and drink is so expensive at the show. As is the custom with the Globetrotters Club, after the event in the evening, Matt our chair, guided us to a fine pub behind Olympia, without the aid of GPS and a compass – later I rolled off my bus outside my flat and thought a good night was had by all.

    The climbing wall and the diving pool were good to see but I think the show lacked a few visual events; otherwise it is too much like one stand after the other. All the exhibitors were on hand to help or cajole us into going on to some amazing trip or other. Plus presentations on nearly Ice Wallevery place you could wish to visit.

    Visitor numbers seemed a bit down, but the new regime (ATS Events, UK Ltd) is going to have a few Dive poolmore visitor participant companies in next year’s show, and that they will start to plan for this, as this year’s show ends.

    How did it work out? I think the jury still out but as they only had from November to plan and as they are continuing the rejuvenation process, we will know by next years Adventure Show. Every show of every type, whether west end musical or travel show, needs a shake up now and again as nothing can stay the same without starting to look tired and the boring. Visitors need to think they need to come every year and not just once every five years or so.

    About the author Tony Annis: have camera will travel. Over the top but not yet over the hill. Past sixty five and still alive, my get up and go has not entirely got up and gone – like good whisky, I’m still going strong. I am always available for writing and photography commissions and still work professionally in journalism and broadcasting.

    See you over the next horizon, Tony, e-mail: tony@annis.co.uk


  • Long Serving Globetrotters Awards by Francesca Jaggs

    While thinking of ways to celebrate Globetrotters’
    Club’s 60th anniversary we came up with the idea of awarding people who
    have been members for 30 years or more, with a certificate.
    Our
    President, Janet Street-Porter has signed 17 certificates.

    Using my own membership of exactly 30 years I was able
    to use my membership number of 1202 as a useful gauge.
    However, some
    members ended up with new numbers if they renewed slightly late at one
    point in our club’s history and the original numbers were
    destroyed.
    So, if you are one of these people and you know you joined before 1976
    then please contact me:


    e11fdj@yahoo.
    co. uk


    We offer our sincere apologies to anyone omitted from the list
    below.

    At our London meeting on 7th January 2006 we presented
    the certificates to those there, the rest will be sent out.
    One member,
    who was omitted deserves a special mention. She has been
    coming to our
    meetings in London for many years and has been a member since
    1968.
    Joan McConn will receive her own presentation at a future
    meeting.

    The list of long serving members:

    • Norman Ford
    • Jean Clough
    • Betty Dawes (Browning)
    • Joan McConn
    • Susan Mew
    • Anne Ross
    • Isabel Ramsay
    • Margaret Hayward
    • John Baker
    • John and Julie Batchelor
    • Jill Dunisthorpe
    • Sylvia McMaster
    • Francesca Jaggs
    • John Barnes
    • Winifred Manders
    • Malcolm Kier
    • Irene Richards

  • The Secret Seaside of Sao Paulo by Tony Annis

    We dragged ourselves ever upwards and onwards, I
    thought my get up and go, with the help of Guarana and good whisky was
    still going strong; but rather than over the hill – I was finding it
    difficult too even get up this hill! My friends and I were on a steep
    walk that was just short of being able to be described as a climb –
    fifty minutes of mud steps, not cut out but worn into the so called
    path by travellers over the years, always at least eighteen inches in
    height. We climbed through a rising rain forest of trees and
    roots that
    would make their way up to a cold pool that was fed by a lovely
    waterfall, the highest of two that finally spilled their waters into
    the rushing river below. The roots would act as handholds or

    footholds
    as we dragged ourselves up from the 35ºC at the start to a
    comfortable 27ºC at the top. This was the sort of
    tough but
    pleasant tramp that would be banned by Heath and Safety committees in
    the UK, but with care, no problem for anyone at all, not even for me!
    My companions were two lady lawyers, a female translator and a fit
    young man, arrogant and confident, much as I must have been at his time
    of life.

    My brother had recommended me to visit Boissucanga,
    locally known as ‘Boi’ and stay in a lovely rustic house owned by
    ‘Jenny’ not far from the beach in this yet as unspoilt resort, used by
    ‘Paulistas’ as a weekend escape from their large pulsating city that is
    the driving engine not only of Brazil but also of the whole of South
    America. Around three hours drive from Sao Paulo or about
    nine from Rio
    de Janeiro, Boi is to the south, just passed Ilha Bella, near Sao
    Antonio. Boi comes after the fashionable towns of the ‘Costa
    Verde’,
    therefore much cheaper to stay, much less crowded and practically no
    foreign tourists. There is always a place to stay, whatever
    the size of
    your budget – Extremely well designed 5* small Hotels (for example
    Juquey Praia Hotel – R$ 300 [with breakfast] R$ 390 [with breakfast and
    dinner] per day); Pousadas [Guest Houses] (various standards of
    simplicity, from R$ 100 to R$ 200 per day) as well as Jenny’s very
    reasonably priced rustic haven (self- contained houses at R$100 per
    day).

    No crowds on very different beaches, some with waves
    and some calm and the three Islands just offshore, make this just the
    resort to take some time out! Not to say there is nothing to do!

    The three islands provide perfect picnic beaches, not
    spoilt by vendors of any type. We took our own beer,
    sandwiches, prawns
    and fruit. We swam, went snorkelling and generally explored
    the small
    area but mostly wallowed in the warm clear water. A short,
    pleasant,
    forty minute boat ride from the mainland and costing only about
    £6-00 a head to taken there and then to be picked up again in
    the late afternoon. Two days of my visit I spent enjoying
    myself on
    these relaxing three Islands.

    Boissuganga, itself a small simple town but with a bank
    I was able to draw money out of with my plastic from its electronic
    cashier (Bradesco Bank). A curved empty beach, calm water,
    excellent
    simple bars right down by the water side with marvellous fish, prawns
    meals straight out of the sea and on to your table -The sound of the
    sea lapping on the shore, mixing with the gentle playing of guitars at
    the start of sunset. The splash of yellow and gold of the
    sky,
    reflecting off the locals as well as the water and the sound of their
    clapping as the sun went down and day turned into night.

    This was the signal for the waterside bar (Parati), to
    awaken and the sound of Brazilian Popular Music, to drift across the
    moonlit beach. Brazilians love to party and as usual many of
    them
    joined in the singing – Dancing is something you cannot stop them doing
    once they hear the sound of exciting music.

    Two of the evenings I thought I would pop out for a
    dance and though a small town, there were always three or four places
    one could go to dance. Music of all different types in Bistro
    bars
    round the town where I could dance the night away or least until the
    early hours of the morning, after which I would stagger home, not
    drunk, just exhausted from having such a good time with my lovely
    companions.

    As I gathered my thoughts together, sitting on the bus
    awaiting it to start my journey back to Rio de Janeiro. I had
    made sure
    it was taking the coast road and I was sitting on the seaside of the
    coach so that I could see this lovely coast line as I made my way back
    north up the ‘Costa Verde’

    Every now and again I discover or hear of a gem of a
    place, still not exploited or spoilt and I pass them on to the
    Globetrotters Club via the e-news or GT Magazine. So guys,
    Boissucanga
    is another such place – Why not, just go for it!

    Send Jenny an e-mail for more information.

    jennym@uol. com. br

    &

    boijmr@aol. com

    .


    All photos © by Tony
    Annis.


  • MEETING NEWS

    Meeting news from our branches around the world.


    July’s London meeting took place on the other side of Covent
    Garden at The Concert Artists Association, due to the building work
    at our usual Church of Scotland venue. The September meeting will
    also take place there, as the building work continues. The meeting
    was an opportunity for 8 club members to take us on a digital
    journey around the globe.

    Kevin Brackley started the show with a trip through Iran and
    Pakistan, we saw Tehran’s big square and the ex US Embassy
    before taking in the beauty of the Esfahan mosques, the now
    destroyed city of Bam and some interesting roads in Pakistan near
    the border with Afghanistan where he tried his hand at firing an
    AK47 Kalashnikov.

    Sue Baker then took us east to Nepal, where she flew into
    Lukla and then trekked to show us wonderful mountain Monasteries
    and the Himalaya, including Mount Everest, staying in stone built
    mountain huts along the way. Sue finished in Katmandu, home to
    colourful Buddhist stupas and Pottery Square.

    Sheila Nicholls showed us another high altitude destination,
    Chile and the Atacama Desert, visiting San Pedro, the regions main
    town, from where she saw brilliant red coloured volcanoes. The
    Atacama region is also home to blinding white salt flats, places
    making furniture from cactus wood and the spectacular El Tatio
    geysers.

    Raymond Martin brought us back across the Atlantic to
    Romanian Danube delta. This corner of Europe squashed between the
    Black Sea and Ukraine is not connected to the European road system
    and as such is mainly only accessible by boat. No doubt it is
    this inaccessibility that has contributed to it being a world
    heritage area that is home to more than 300 types of wildlife. Ray
    showed us the navigable rivers including the 1991 shipwreck of The
    Vostock.

    After the break it was Globies resident Aussie Jacqui
    Trotter
    to take us down under for a trip she made with her Dad
    from Darwin back to her home in New South Wales. Her trip was at
    the start of the wet season which meant she saw water cascading
    off Uluru and the Todd River in Alice Springs with water in! She
    also showed us Katherine Gorge and The Devils Marbles, huge
    roadside boulders in the middle of nowhere. Jacqui showed us the
    now running again Ghan train snaking its way along before ending
    back at the Blue Mountains in NSW.

    Rosalie Bolland’s fascination with waterfalls took her
    on an organised trip to see the Angel falls in Venezuela, we saw
    the actual aircraft that Jimmy Angel crash landed on top of the
    falls. Rosalie got some great views flying over the falls in a
    light aircraft and the taking a boat to see them from closer up,
    though the falls are so large she had difficulty getting them into
    one photograph.

    Neil Harris took us back to the sub continent to visit
    Bangladesh, showing us that in fact it is not all just flooded as
    out TV pictures seem to show us there is some higher ground there,
    with markets and towns such as Cox’s Bazaar, where the people
    were fascinated by seeing their picture on his digital camera.
    Neil’s pictures showed us happy smiling people and some great
    beaches.

    Ernest Flesch transported us to Yemen in the Middle East, we
    saw Palaces in the capital Sana’a, where the locals spend
    their afternoons chewing qat. Out in the desert of wadi hadramat we
    saw mud brick skyscrapers and mosques with red and white minarets
    and not forgetting camels. The men all carried arms and knives,
    which were on display in the shops, though don’t know how
    Ernest managed to sneak those back into the UK!

    Many thanks to all the members who made it a very enjoyable
    afternoon.

    By Padmassana

    September’s meeting will take place on 3rd September at a
    change to our usual venue:
    Concert Artistes Association 20 Bedford Street Covent Garden
    London WC2E 9HP Start 3.00 pm

    Jules Stewart will be talking about “The North-West Frontier
    and the Men who guard the Khyber Pass” Jules is a former
    Reuter’s reporter – now freelance and author of ”
    The Khyber Rifles: from the British Raj to Al
    Queda
    ” and now working on
    a book about the Pundits.

    After the break, Juliet Coombe will talk about “Sir-Lanka
    post-Tsunami – In a crisis, EVERYONE counts !” Juliet is a
    very busy freelance travel writer, photographer and publisher and
    more. She cleared her desk and flew to Sri Lanka to work as a
    volunteer with a charity group. A subsequent photographic
    exhibition was a complete sell out, and will build a heap of
    houses.

    London meetings are held at The Church of Scotland, Crown
    Court, behind the Fortune Theatre in Covent Garden at 2.30pm the
    first Saturday of each month. There is no London meeting in August,
    but we will be back in September. For more information, you can
    contact the Globetrotters Info line on +44 (0) 20 8674 6229, or
    visit the website:
    www.globetrotters.co.uk


    We are sorry to say that for the time being, New York meetings are
    suspended as Laurie really needs a helper. If you have some time to
    spare and are based in or near NYC, please contact Laurie on the
    e-mail address below.

    For details of forthcoming meetings email newyork@globetrotters.co.uk
    or register for email updates, click
    here at our website.

    New York meetings are held at The Wings Theatre, 154 Christopher
    Street (btw Greenwich St and Washington St), to the right of Crunch
    Fitness, in the Archive on the first Saturday of each month at 4
    pm.


    For information on Ontario meetings, please contact Svatka
    Hermanek: shermanek@schulich.yorku.ca
    or Bruce Weber: tel. 416-203-0911 or Paul Webb: tel. 416-694-8259.

    Meetings are held on the third Friday of January, March, May,
    September and November. Usually at the Woodsworth Co-op, Penthouse,
    133, Wilton Street in downtown Toronto at 8.00 p.m.


    Due to bereavement in Christina’s family, we regret to say that
    Texas meetings have stopped pending further notice. If you have
    time to spare and would like to take over Texas meetings, please
    contact the Beetle on: beetle@globetrotters.co.uk


    If you enjoy writing, enjoy travelling, why not write for the free
    monthly Globetrotters e-newsletter! The Beetle would love to hear
    from you: your travel stories, anecdotes, jokes, questions, hints
    and tips, or your hometown or somewhere of special interest to you.
    Over 8,000 people currently subscribe to the Globetrotter e-news.

    To see your story in cyber print, e-mail the Beetle with your
    travel experiences, hints and tips or questions up to 750 words,
    together with a couple of sentences about yourself and a contact
    e-mail address to Beetle@globetrotters.co.uk


    When I told people I was going to Slovenia, the reactions I
    got
    were similar: “Where?” “What? Is that a
    country?” “Hmm, never heard of it” and “What is
    that near?” My mother asked if it was dangerous and my brother
    simply laughed.

    triple bridgeIf
    you don’t know where Slovenia is or you didn’t even know
    it existed, you shouldn’t be ashamed. It is one of Europe’s
    smallest countries with a population of less than 2 million. The
    capital city, Ljubljana, has fewer than 300,000 inhabitants. It is
    a “new” country in the sense that it has only existed as
    its own nation since 1991, when it became the first republic to
    separate from the former Federal People’s Republic of
    Yugoslavia.

    Dragon BridgeSlovenia
    was fortunate in that it managed to gain independence
    without suffering from the war and genocide that befell its
    neighbours, Croatia and Bosnia. This is partially explained by the
    fact that Slovenia is ethnically pure relative to its neighbours:
    most people living in Slovenia are Slovene and Catholic. Further
    east, there was a patchwork of ethnic and religious groups that
    left no clear dividing lines.

    After Slovenia’s plebiscite for independence yielded 88% in
    favour of breaking from the Yugoslav federation, there was a brief
    conflict with Belgrade dubbed the “Ten-Day War.” I asked
    for details, but Nikolaj (one of the Slovenes I befriended) told me
    it was not really a war. I wanted to know what it was like living
    through the separation, but he told me there were only a few
    skirmishes and less than 20 Slovenes died.

    Nikolaj was extremely proud of his country and heritage. He
    insisted that he was “patriotic, not nationalistic,”
    although I began to doubt this assertion after he made a few
    comments along the order of “Slovenes only leave Slovenia to
    realize it is the best country and come back.” He was
    convinced that Slovene wine was better than French wine. He told me
    which of the songs playing at the bar were Serbian nationalistic
    anthems and which ones were Slovene folk songs.

    horsesHe
    took me to a bar where there was a painting of Tito on the wall
    and the bartender forgot to charge us for our Laskov beers. Nikolaj
    insisted that I sample all of Slovenia’s drinks, including
    beers from the two national breweries (Laskov and Union) and
    several spirits distilled from blueberries and anise, whose names I
    would mention except they are utterly impossible to pronounce,
    spell, or even remember for that matter.

    The beauty of the Slovene language is that it does not
    restrict
    itself with the requirement that words actually contain vowels.
    Words comprised entirely of consonants (e.g. trg, vrt, smrt) are
    fully acceptable, although Nikolaj tried to convince me that all
    these words contain “silent vowels.” Other words contain
    an unnaturally long string of consonants (e.g. odprto) or a
    fundamentally disturbing combination of letters (e.g.
    predvcerajsnjim).

    I mean honestly. That looks like alphabet soup on crack.

    grafitiThe
    Slovenes are friendly people and many of them spoke to me. In
    fact, they are extremely engaging, to the point that you oddly feel
    at home in Slovenia and never want to leave Ljubljana. This is what
    happened to Diego, an American who I met through Vladimir, a
    Slovene bartender at my hostel. Diego came to Ljubljana and loved
    it so much that he kept on coming back. Finally he just decided to
    stay for good.

    Diego and Vladomir took me to the nice bars in Ljubljana.
    Considering the city’s small size, there areLake Bled
    surprisingly many.
    The hostel where I stayed (the Celica) is in the heart of the
    city’s alternative scene. When I read about the hostel in the
    Rough Guide, I was slightly alarmed because it mentioned the
    building used to be a military prison. I went ahead and booked a
    bed anyway because it was the cheapest place to stay. It turned out
    to be more of a cultural centre than a hostel, with music
    performances, art workshops, and a happening bar.

    Outside of Ljubljana, the Slovene country is absolutely
    gorgeous.
    The scenery is stunning – lush, idyllic, and bucolic. Over half of
    the country is covered in forest and 40% is mountainous. There are
    alpine lakes crowned by cliff-top castles and island churches.

    Slovenia is an easy place to fall in love with. It exceeded my
    expectations and the only disappointing part about my visit was
    that I had to leave Ljubljana. For now at least…


    Trade Aid is a UK
    registered charity, which works with and supports Trade Aid
    Tanzania, a non profit-making Trust. Trade Aid supplies educational and material
    resources, and also volunteers from Europe. Our aim is to alleviate
    poverty in Southern Tanzania by creating educational and employment
    opportunities for the local community and assisting in the
    development of a sustainable tourist industry in Mikindani.

    Below we describe a new seedling planting project we are helping
    with in Mikindani.

     African Blackwood/African Ebony, Dalbergia Melanoxylon and African
    Ironwood are all names for the tree that is locally known as
    Mpingo. The uses of this tree are endless and for this reason
    Mpingo is now one of Africa’s most endangered trees. Our
    advisor, Mr Thomas knows all too well the importance of protecting
    our natural resources and therefore Blackwood is his choice of seed
    for this season’s project in the tree nursery. The children
    (see picture below) from Singino and Mnaida Schools have started
    the seedling trays which will be potted into plastic pods in a few
    weeks. By the Autumn the saplings will be distributed around the
    schools in Mikindani for the next tree growing project.

     Conserving trees such as Blackwood is an essential practice if we
    are to benefit from its many uses:

    • Beehives- the tree is used as a hive. The honey produced is dark
      amber and strong flavoured.
    • Building materials- it is an extremely durable wood, also ant and
      beetle proof.
    • Fuel- the heat generated from Mpingo fires is so high that it can
      melt cooking utensils.
    • Crafts- nearly all Makonde carvings will be designed out of this
      wood.
    • Domestic use- clubs, hammers, spears, sticks, chess pieces
    • Dye
    • Fodder- the pods and leaves are used as animal fodder
    • Land improvement
      (green manure, mulch and nitrogen fixing)
    • Medicine- the roots are used to treat abdominal pain, diarrhoea
      and syphilis. The wood smoke is inhaled to treat headaches and
      bronchitis.
    • Musical instruments- piano keys, clarinets

    ‘By wise planning now we can insure that this valuable natural
    resource will maintain its vital role in the local ecosystem and be
    available for the future harvesting of mature trees for woodwork
    purposes.’


    Back in January 2004 Martin Wright, one the club’s most
    sociable regulars at the London Meetings, royally entertained a
    packed Crown Court with tales of his marathon cycle ride to
    Australia. Many in that audience will remember his great photos,
    distinctive narrative style and his thirst for adventure. Well
    Martin is at it again – this time he’s go back to the land down
    under to ‘pick up his bike and have a look round’. I think
    too many cold winter nights provided the motivation to get back on
    the road! This is the fourth in an occasional series, based on
    Martin’s emails, and charts his offbeat approach to the road
    ahead.

    5 May: Hi all. Have made it as far as Ayutthaya, 60 kms
    north of Bangkok. Previously I had spent a few days in Kanchanaburi
    – 120kms west of Bangkok and infamous because of the death railway
    and the bridge over the River Kwai. In the meantime I took a train
    to Bangkok to apply for a new passport as the old one was full. At
    the British Embassy, a huge building in a compound which seemed to
    take up half of Bangkok, I was given the necessary form to fill in
    and then had to part with almost 70 pounds sterling! Also had to
    wait five working days, which because of the bank holiday turned
    out to be six. If the buggers back in the U K had given me a 48
    page passport which I paid for when I last applied I would have
    saved myself time and money.

    While in Bangkok I stayed in a hotel in Chinatown overlooking the
    river – very nice, quiet and at night there was a cool breeze.
    During the daytime it was sweltering and I’ve found that it is
    much easier to cycle than walk in this heat. This all made a great
    change from the Khao San Road area which resembled a zoo although
    none of the animals are on the endangered list!

    Chinatown was a great area for wandering around especially at night
    when the food stalls were operating. Found an eating place next to
    a Chinese temple where the food was delicious and the beer cheap –
    ate here three nights in a row and met the same people. One fellow
    was the local drunk who always had something to say, although I
    understood nothing I am sure he thought otherwise.

    On Monday I left Kanchanaburi and cycled through Suphan Buri on to
    Ayutthaya where I arrived on Tuesday. Wednesday saw me back on the
    train to Bangkok to collect my new passport followed by a visit to
    the immigration department, which of course was some distance away
    to have my entry stamp put into my new passport. Back on the sky
    train, back on a boat, back on the train and back to
    Ayutthaya…glad to have this finished.

    This morning I decided to make coffee in my room on my Trangia
    stove…not a good idea as it turned out. A Trangia burns
    methylated spirits and while I put the water on to boil I hung my
    washing out to dry. This took longer than expected, and when I
    returned the bedside cabinet was on fire! A bottle of water put out
    the flames and of course made a horrible mess – a clean up
    operation was in order and hopefully I have left no trace of my
    attempted arson. I still had enough water in the pan to make a cup
    of coffee thankfully. I am going to throw that Trangia away as it
    is the first time I have used it since leaving Australia, and it is
    bulky & heavy. Anyway the coffee from the hawkers is far better
    stuff! Am heading towards Cambodia where I should arrive in about
    one week…hopefully I will arrive without having burned down
    somebody’s guest house!

    9 May: On leaving Ayutthaya my intention was to cycle
    in an easterly direction towards Cambodia but as I arrived at the
    relevant junction I was offered the choice; turn right for Cambodia
    or go straight ahead and visit northern Thailand! As I had not
    visited the north before I thought, ‘bollocks to Cambodia for
    now I like the look of the road on the map which runs along the
    border with Myanmar.’ It does present me with a slight problem
    as I will have to find a crossing point into Myanmar for a five
    minute, one hour or one day visit but on re-entering Thailand I
    will be given another 30 day stamp! This should give me plenty of
    time to reach Chiang Rai in the north before following the Mekong
    all the way back down to the Cambodian border.

    At present I am in Sukhothai staying in a very quiet and peaceful
    guest house next to a river. My intention was to spend two nights
    here with one day for resting, however I will now be having at
    least three nights and two days here as I would like to ride out to
    old Sukhothai to visit the very old capital city. There are of
    course many good eating places; night markets and small restaurants
    where the food is of course brilliant and cheaper than chips! As
    yesterday I cycled further than I normally would in a single day,
    it was cool and I had a tail wind, I thought I might as well make
    the most of it, as it is the first day in Asia when the temperature
    did not reach 30c. It was a very cool and pleasant 29c. Soon after
    I reached the guest house a strange thing happened – it
    rained…not the English rain whereby it takes all day for one
    millimetre to fall. This was good old tropical rain and after one
    hour of rainfall the roads are like rivers. Soon after the sun
    comes out and within a short time it is blue sky and no sign of any
    rainfall.

    On that note good bye to you all and have a nice day. Martin


    Trip duration: 11 days
    Trip miles to date: 2,017
    Miles since last update: 2,017

     As
    I’m writing this I’m drinking an extremely strong coffee in
    Rio Gallegos (no, I’d never heard of it neither), about 1,750
    miles south of Buenos Aires and about 300 from Ushuaia. This is me,
    on the right of the picture.

    These first few days in the saddle have been a gentle introduction,
    I think. The southern Argentinean roads have been unbelievably
    straight, set within a dead-flat terrain with strong winds and
    little traffic. The sense of distance (from home as much as Buenos
    Aires) has accumulated every day.

    Did I mention the straight roadsFirst stop-over was
    courtesy of a tip from a fellow traveller (thanks Mick!) in Azul ,
    235 miles from Buenos Aires. The thermometer on the handlebars
    suggested 34 deg, verified by the perfect blue sky. I tried out the
    ‘helmet-cam’ on the way out of BA but I fear I’ve
    accidentally recorded over the footage……oh well, I was riding
    like a dork anyway.

    I pulled into Azul about 5.30pm, and began searching the streets
    for a garage with an 8ft painted BMW sign, coupled with an 8ft
    Yamaha sign. I had no right to find it but these things have a
    habit of working out and sure enough, along a quite residential
    street I found “La Posta Del Viajero en Moto”….a mecca
    to adventure motorcyclists and charitably run by Jorge, his partner
    Monica and chief translator, daughter Polly. A
    “donation-box” exists on the wall, but no mention was
    made and I was left to discover it for myself.

    I’m almost sad I found Jorge and his family at the start of the
    trip, as I fear I won’t enjoy such a genuine and warm welcome
    anywhere from here to Alaska. I turn up unannounced at 5.30pm on a
    Wednesday and greeted with excitement, interest and treated to an
    amazing asado (meat feast!) with the family. The bunk-house is
    covered in graffiti from previous residents and the visitor’s
    books (there are 3, and counting!) and all stuffed with the same
    sentiment. I feel honoured to have left my mark and signed
    “Brits Corner”…..

    The next couple of days were spent speeding down to Viedma (pretty
    coastal resort town), then Commodora Rivadavia where I stopped an
    extra day to cruise around the Peninsula Valdès – a huge national
    park and home to several thousand elephant seals and penguins.
    Whale watching tours are popular here too.

    The Argentineans are extremely friendly. I stopped for a coffee in
    Puerto Piràmede – see the picture left, and a chap excitedly
    introduced himself as Ernesto Scotti. It transpires his son is a
    fellow R-T-W bike and is in the Guinness Book of Records for a
    related record. We chat and gossip for a long time and it’s
    refreshing to be reminded that we are all basically the same,
    “citizens of the world” as Ernesto described it much
    better than I.

    Yesterday I completed the biggest day in the saddle, about 500
    miles down to Rio Gallegos. The terrain has changed subtly, and the
    sense of remoteness increased, but this is no third world region.
    The standard of living is still pretty high, especially
    anticipating what is to come in Bolivia and Peru.

    The bike is running great. I’m slightly concerned with the
    speed of wear on the front sprocket and the rear tyre is also
    wearing quickly. I think both of these symptoms are a consequence
    of the extra weight the bike is carrying. Naturally I’ve packed
    too much crap and will shred as I go.

    One last note – as I parked up last night in the secure hotel
    car-park I was pleasantly surprised to find another travellers bike
    with a Brit number plate. It belongs to Jeremy Bullard (http://www.fowb.co.uk/)
    who I believe is taking a break back in Blighty…..

    Oh well, tomorrow I strike for Ushuaia and the end of the world.

    If you want to know more about Greg’s travels: http://www.unbeatentrack.com/


    Comprising of around 50 islands (750 if you count the archipelago
    of the Bahamas), the Caribbean is a real treasure trove when it
    comes to cruising. A rich variety of vistas, people and places
    await, along with swaying palms and idyllic beaches of golden sand.
    The network of islands in the Caribbean is in fact so extensive
    that it is possible to book several Caribbean cruises and avoid
    going to the same islands twice!

    There are four basic Caribbean cruise routes used by cruise
    operators:

    1. Western Caribbean Cruise Route – Departing from
      seaports in Texas, Louisiana and Florida, the Western Route takes
      in the Yucatan Peninsula of Mexico, the island of Cozumel, the
      Cayman Islands, Jamaica, and any number of islands off the coasts
      of Honduras and Belize.
    2. Eastern Caribbean Cruise Route – One of the most
      popular Caribbean cruise routes, the Eastern Route typically
      departs from Florida and other seaports along the eastern seaboard of the United
      States. The route calls on destinations such as Key West, The
      Bahamas, Turks and Caicos Islands the Virgin Islands (including
      St. Thomas and St. Croix), and Puerto Rico.
    3. Southern Caribbean Cruise Route – This route
      normally commences at San Juan in Puerto Rico, and takes in many
      possible destinations along the Lesser Antilles and the
      Netherlands Antilles as far west as Aruba.
    4. Exotic/Long-duration Caribbean Cruise Route
      This route takes in any/all of the above destinations, and can
      sometimes end in a different place to where the cruise started.

    Given this broad assortment of destinations available in the
    Caribbean, it can be a bit overwhelming when trying to make that
    crucial decision on which islands to fit into your itinerary. After
    all, you don’t want to miss out on some true Caribbean gems, do
    you? So, whether you’re planning a short vacation or a longer
    cruise break away from home, here is a selection of
    ‘must-sees’ & ‘must-dos’ on your Caribbean
    adventure.

    • St Croix (Virgin Islands) – Take a night kayak trip in
      Salt River National Park and visit the first landing site of
      Christopher Columbus on his voyage to the New World.
    • Grenada– Although ravaged by Hurricane Ivan in 2004,
      Grenada is still well worth a visit for its scuba diving. You can
      explore the largest shipwreck in the Caribbean here and see an
      underwater volcano.
    • Virgin Islands – The Cinnamon Bay National Park offers
      excellent snorkelling opportunities. You can see a wealth of
      underwater life in the shallow waters around St. Thomas.
    • Jamaica – Why not try your hand at bamboo rafting in
      Montego Bay?
    • Puerto Rico – No Caribbean cruise would be complete
      without a visit to the world famous Condado Beach on the island
      of Puerto Rico.
    • Aruba – Want to find Caribbean paradise? How about
      relaxing on one of the 365 beaches that surround the Dutch island
      of Aruba.
    • St Kitts – Swim with the turtles in the waters around St
      Kitts and then relax on the pink sand beaches on this beautiful
      island.

    Good luck with planning your trip and happy cruising. Metty
    Metcalfe is the webmaster for A to Z Cruises which is the No1
    resource for Caribbean Cruise related Information on the Internet.
    Be sure to visit his site here:


    The Royal Geographical Society (with IBG), in partnership with BBC
    Radio 4, offer you the chance to make that journey and to tell the
    world about it in a memorable piece of radio documentary-making. Each year the RGS-IBG and the
    BBC award the best idea for an original, exciting, and exceptional
    journey and we’re inviting you to join the great travellers
    who’ve already fulfilled their dreams. It’s important that
    the project takes you somewhere fresh, different and original – not
    just a holiday to the Greek Islands! It’s also a good idea to
    bear in mind where the five previous winners have been (such as
    Ladakh in 2005 and Madagascar in 2004) as we won’t award
    similar journeys this year. More details on the RGS-IBG website.

    Your journey needs really to matter to you: we need to feel your
    passion and enthusiasm and Radio 4 listeners need to be fascinated.
    Bear in mind that the BBC already broadcasts a lot of documentaries
    about faraway places (listen to Crossing Continents and From Our Own Correspondent, for example, in
    order to gauge the style of Radio 4’s regular foreign
    reportage). When thinking up your idea, make sure it’s the sort
    of thing journalists rarely have the time to cover. Most reporters
    can only afford the time and money to make short visits to meet
    important people and don’t often get under the skin of local
    society.

    The programme you’ll be making needs to tell your story – and
    that of the journey and the place you’ll be visiting (the
    tourist trail isn’t likely to be top of the judging panel’s
    list unless you can put an interesting new spin on it) – in a
    graphic and attractive way. Think of the audio potential in the
    idea – not just indigenous music and sounds (in reality they rarely
    sustain more than a few seconds), but how you are going to find
    interesting sounds within the substance of the journey (by keeping
    an audio-diary, for example). Radio is very good on atmospherics
    and imaginative pictures, but you need to think about what your
    journey and your destination offer to create those pictures.

    Conditions

    • You’ll be travelling between January and July 2006.* We welcome travellers of all ages, but you must be able to travel safely and responsibly.
    • You must have a permanent UK postal address.* Interviews will be held in early December in London. You must be able to attend these interviews in person.* Applications from small teams rather than solo travellers are also accepted, but please make clear in your application if this is the case.
    • The award is for independent travel. We will NOT consider any journey joining a commercial expedition or pre-paid tour, including organised charity fundraising tours.
    • The final deadline for pitches is Tuesday, 27 September 2005.

    Please send your pitches, either by email or by post, to:
    The Grants Officer, Royal Geographical Society (with IBG)

    Email: grants@rgs.org
    Address: 1 Kensington Gore, London SW7 2AR
    Tel: 020 7591 3073
    Full details are at http://www.rgs.org/category.php?Page=maingrants


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     We
    are sorry to say that Mac is not very well, but he is still
    e-mailing strong and recently sent the Beetle a collection of
    travel reminiscences. This, and next month is about China.

    One of the times I went to China I did not hide my military
    connection but someone along the way before I left the states
    changed my category from retired military to “teacher”. I
    was travelling with an American woman who was actually a teacher in
    the Military Dependent Schools in Korea. She told me she taught
    Home Economics, health and sewing. When I was asked what I taught
    my mind went blank and then I recalled what she taught and I said:
    Home Economics, heath and sewing. My real teacher travel companion
    was asked her what she taught. She smiled and said: football,
    soccer, and wrestling. We were by then both laughing and the
    immigration inspector shook his head at us and left us.

    Before we got on plane for China we were told to turn over any
    U.S. Military identification we had on us and to not take it into
    China. I hesitated to do this in case it could be reproduced and
    didn’t like giving it to someone I did not know, but had to
    make a decision in a hurry and nothing was going to stop me from
    seeing the Great Wall Of China. Someone later asked me if I had
    walked the whole distance of the Wall. (It is 4000 miles long!) It
    is wide enough for five horses (some say six as that is a lucky
    number in China) to pass and is 2000 years old.

    In Hangchow, Mr Wu showed us a painting on the wall of at
    temple
    for famous Chinese General Yue Eeti as a young man. The painting
    showed his mother with a knife carving on the lads’ back the
    admonition in Chinese letters: “Always be true to your
    country.” Juanita, my friend, whispered to me: “That must
    have made a lasting impression” Ha!

    We went to the Sick Duck restaurant in Beijing. It is called
    Sick
    Duck because it is near a hospital. There is also a Super Duck
    Restaurant, a Baby Duck restaurant and a Ruptured Duck Restaurant
    (I just threw that in!) all serving Peking Duck (Beijing Duck does
    not sound right.) The cook brings out the duck on a platter and
    then you applaud. I don’t know if you are applauding the dead
    duck, the cook or who.

    Eunuchs (and there were 70,000 of them) at the time of the
    Ming
    destiny who allegedly carried their testicles about with them in a
    little pouch in the hope of being reunited with them in death. (You
    heard it here!)

    When we got off plane in Hangchow a guide came up to us and
    asked
    “Are you the group of six?” We were the six that had
    gotten our tour thorough USO in Seoul, Korea. When I told them I
    did not have enough money with me to make the trip they said I
    could write a cheque. He put us in a van and we drove into town.
    When we saw a bicycle rider carrying a huge white wreath we asked
    what is that. He said: “It is for warning”. He then
    changed it to: “It is for mourning.” Mr Wu said he had
    put on his “wish list” to return to Hangchow as a guide
    (they had him working all over China) as he had a three year old
    son in Hangchow. He said his son was born early in the morning so
    they named him Xu Chiao Ming which means “The cock that crows
    early in the morning.”

    Our guide Miss Cha was late in getting to the airport at
    Beijing.
    She had gone to the wrong airport. She breathlessly rushed up to us
    and apologized and said, “It is a slow boat to China.”
    She then said, “If you do not understand my English you can
    lump it.” We quickly realized she had memorized phrases she
    did not know the exact meaning to. She was a nurse but they needed
    guides badly so she had been assigned us. She asked who was from
    Great Britain and said, “I hope I warm the cockles of your
    heart.” We grew fond of Miss Cha and a friend, Lisa gave her a present.
    She asked if she should unwrap it and Lisa said yes. She started to
    unwrap it and her face turned red and she quickly rewrapped it. It
    was a pair of silk stockings. When we went to leave Beijing we
    asked Miss Cha if she would have breakfast with us in the foreign
    only dining room. She said ,”No, I have other fish to
    fly.” We warmed to all our guides except on those that tried
    to feed us propaganda.

    Kneehow (phonetic) in Chinese means hello. In China, Carol who
    was
    from England, and had a beautiful voice would sing slightly
    risqué
    Cockney songs and George would sing “My old lady and the lady
    next door went down the river on a barnyard door singing Ki Yi
    Yippie Yi ” and nonsensical songs. Miss Cha who was trying to
    learn English (she had taught herself) wanted to learn some of
    these songs so she could sing them to her next tour group. As some
    were risqué Carol said, “My dear I don’t think you really
    need to learn these songs.” Les would give his excellent
    imitation of Peter Sellers imitating an Indian and his accent was
    hilariously correct. We should have been a USO troop. We laughed
    all the way across China.

    In response to last month’s article about Diego Garcia, Mac
    reports that a friend who was in the Seabees building airstrip on
    island of Diego Garcia has just shown me an old yellowed newspaper
    account of it dated June 25 1978. This is probably more than you want to know about this
    isolated
    island. 700 Seabees were sent there to built the airstrip.

    A Portuguese armada sailing around the tip of Africa in 1512
    stopped here. Settled first by French in the late 1770s the island
    was occupied alternately by France and England following the
    American Revolution. The survivors of the sailing ship Atlas which
    was wrecked here on May 30 1786 joined the British expedition
    settled on the island at that time. Slavery was introduced the
    following year.

    In 1787 a businessman from Mauritius saw opportunity on Diego
    Garcia in the form of coconut oil lacking but needed by Mauritius
    located 1,l00 miles southeast of Diego Garcia. He received
    permission to harvest and export Diego Garcia coconuts to
    Mauritius. Slaves were sent to pick them. A band of lepers
    accompanied the slaves because it was felt that conditions on the
    island might be healing to persons suffering from the disease. (By
    1824 however, a government report said this was no longer believed
    true.)

    Emancipation was proclaimed in mid 1830s in all British
    possessions. Former slaves were reported by one visitor to have far
    better living conditions than on other islands. Island was later
    used as a coaling station for ships. Coal shipped to the island.

    When the Japanese invaded Ceylon off the coast of India in
    1942
    during World War II the Allies set up an outpost on Diego Garcia to
    monitor Japanese activity. In the 1950s both England and United
    States were concerned about Soviet activity in the Indian ocean where
    “over one half of
    the world’s sea borne oil is
    in transit at any given moment according to a Congressional
    hearing.“

    There was a photo stating Donkeys introduced to Diego Garcia
    about
    1835 when the islands slaves were emancipated today roam freely
    over most of the island (I am afraid I have passed on to you more
    than you want to know about Diego Garcia. Ha. Information is from Sun
    Herald Daily Living,
    Gulfport Mississippi (where Seabees had their headquarters) Sunday
    morning June 25 1978.

    Beside the Seabee (branch of Navy that builds and does
    construction.) I have received an e mail from a different retired
    Navy man living in Italy. He says the highest point on Diego Garcia
    was only about five feet high and during the Tsunami he wondered
    how island fared but said he saw nothing in the news.

    If you would like to contact Mac, he can be e-mailed on:
    macsan400@yahoo.com


    Ryanair’s chief executive, Michael O’Leary has threatened a
    U.K. based Web site with legal action if it doesn’t take down
    comments pertaining to Ryanair’s pilots. O’Leary described
    by one commentator as one of the most combative CEOs to ever run a
    public company, has launched abuse-ridden tirades against critics,
    airports, competitors and regulators. In July, he called the
    company that runs Stansted airport outside London a “bunch of
    overcharging rapists.”

    Back in January, O’Leary labelled a
    European Union ruling that one of Ryanair’s airport deals was
    anticompetitive as “Stalinist”. Despite his ability and willingness to dish out
    ranting tirades against other people and organisations, he
    doesn’t seem to take kindly to any criticism aimed at him. When
    the Professional Pilots Rumour Network, PPruNe a Web forum popular
    with Europe-based pilots, posted a discussion thread containing a
    mixture of informed insights and um….interesting comments on
    Ryanair’s relations with its pilots, the company’s lawyers
    sent the Web site a letter demanding that it take down the thread.

    The letter argued that the statements on the thread were
    “untrue, unfounded, malicious and deeply damaging to the good
    name and trading reputation of Ryanair.” The letter added that
    Ryanair would move to gain an “immediate injunction”
    against PPruNe and claim damages if the Web site didn’t remove
    the thread, which discussed pilot unionization and pilot pay major
    issues for Ryanair. PPruNe removed the thread, but a new thread has
    appeared on the Web site concerning unionization at Ryanair.
    Ryanair didn’t immediately comment when asked why it acted to
    remove the thread. PPruNe owner Danny Fyne said: “Tactics like
    this never work in the long term. If we didn’t publish it,
    someone else would.”

    To find other ways of increasing its revenue, Ryanair has been
    doing all it can to cut costs and boost revenue. This has included
    a cost-cutting move of the fitting of non-reclining seats. But one
    move that is generating criticism, both among customers and in the
    market, is a wheelchair levy on every ticket that Ryanair said it
    was charging to cover the cost of transporting disabled passengers
    to and from its planes. The levy appears to still be in place and
    though it’s not clear if it is around 70 euro cents or 50 euro
    cents, but if it is the lower number, the levy accounted for around
    22% of the increase in operating profits at Ryanair in its June
    quarter, compared with the year-ago period.

    Some commentators say that the wheelchair levy is a clear sign of
    desperation, but so are moves to cut the most basic of pilots’
    perks. One measure has Ryanair pilots buying their own uniforms.
    Ryanair management is currently trying to prevent pilots from
    opting for their union to represent them in pay negotiations. In a
    recent memo, a Ryanair manager at Stansted airport said that paying
    union dues would amount to a waste of money: “If you want to
    waste 1,000 pounds we recommend fast women, slow horses or even
    greyhound racing. At least you’ll have a few minutes of
    fun,” the memo said.

    Experienced pilots who need to receive expensive top-up training to
    fly Ryanair’s new series of Boeings have been told that the
    company won’t pay for their training if they opt for union
    representation, according to a person familiar with employee
    relations at Ryanair.


    If you have enjoyed reading this e-newsletter, why not visit the
    Globetrotter website, http://www.globetrotters.co.uk/
    and have a look at a copy of Globe, the bi-monthly printed
    newsletter sent to members only.

    We also send members only a listing of all members, their contact
    details and countries visited and any help they can offer.
    Globetrotter members network by using this listing to contact each
    other in over 27 countries around the world to ask for travel
    advice, and possibly even meeting. As a member, you will receive a
    reduction on any Globetrotter meetings in your area, and will
    entitle you to have free Globetrotter calling cards to give your
    details to other travellers you meet while travelling.

    Just US $29 or €24 buys you membership for one year. Contact
    membership@globetrotters.co.uk
    for more information.


  • Travel Reminiscences by Stanley Mataichi Sagara

    My name is Stanley Mataichi Sagara. My Christian
    name was given to me by my first grade teacher who was
    probably from the Midwest and had never had an experience
    with Orientals. Apparently my Japanese name was too
    hard to remember for roll call so all the Japanese
    children in my class were given Christian names which we
    carried through out our lives.

    Having been born in August I have just turned 81. I
    have visited 66 countries, however some of these countries
    are no longer separate, such as Macau or Hong Kong.
    Likewise Taiwan may revert back to China in the near
    future.

    Some of my foreign travels were while I was on military
    duty and some were when I was on eye care missions with
    Volunteer Optometric Services to Humanity (VOSH), and the
    balance were when I took tours to these countries.
    Several trips have been repeats. I still consider
    Japan as my favourite country, the birthplace of my father
    and mother. I still have a number of third cousins
    in Japan as I have second cousins in Brazil. My
    second choice would be Austria, where I was when WWII
    ended.

    I was in D Company, 506th Pcht Rgt, 10lst Airborne
    Division. When the war ended eight Japanese-American
    paratroopers were transferred to the 82nd AB Division
    because the l0lst was scheduled to go to the Pacific
    Theater to help defeat Japan. Due to our race we
    were assigned to Europe, hover about 6000 Japanese
    American GIs were assigned to various units in the Pacific
    War as Interpreters-Translators. Each was assigned two big
    Caucasian GIs as body guards who accompanied them
    everywhere (even to the latrine) so they would not be
    mistaken for an infiltrated Japanese soldier.

    I would very much like to visit Scandinavia, I have only
    been to Denmark so far. I have been to Copenhagen and
    Helsinki on several occasions but only in transit.

    My special travel equipment is a nylon bath cloth made in
    Japan. It is helpful to remove dead skin and helpful
    to scrub my back. ($6.00). In my travels I try to keep my
    carry on suitcase under 28 pounds which I send as checked
    baggage. In addition I carry a shoulder bag which
    can be converted to a small back pack where I carry my
    shaving kit and other items that I need at my first hotel,
    in case my checked bag goes astray. In this way I do not
    need to access my checked bag for three days if
    necessary. I actually weigh my packed bag and may
    remove some items if the bag is too heavy. I try not to
    take any item again if I did not use it on my trip, except
    clothing to suit the difference in expected weather
    conditions. I also live out of my packed suitcase for a
    week prior to leaving for the trip so that I do not forget
    some important item or if I think I can do without an
    item, it is left at home. If you cant carry your own bag,
    its too heavy, Better repack! I do not take whole
    tour books, only those pages that are pertinent. I like
    maps and take good ones which are helpful to help write my
    travel journals. A small compass is very helpful,
    especially at night or in such places as subways.

    The longest travel trip I have taken was for 38 days,
    which is about the most I want to take. They say
    “When you start to look like your picture in your
    passport, its time to go home! Australia had many
    surprises for me. I knew it was a big country and that we
    would only see a portions of it but a lot of country is a
    desert. I did get cleaned out of my essential
    possessions while in Oaxaca, Mexico. As it usually is, I
    have to blame myself. I kept everything in my shoulder bag
    which I set down on the floor while I paid for my parking
    fee at a public garage. Less than a minute was all it
    took. No one saw anything, so they told me.

    I have trapped pickpocket’s hands in my pockets,
    once in Sao Paulo, Brazil and again in San Miguel de
    Allende, GTO, Mexico. I learned that its better to chalk
    it up to experience rather than involve the police. They
    can tie you up for hours taking statements, by someone who
    is not fluent in English and they may want the money or
    article involved as evidence, which you will probably
    never see again since you will be moving on in a day or
    so.

    While visiting in Korea I purchased several bargain priced
    sneakers which were irregulars or factory over runs. They
    were about two or three dollars a pair. I gave the
    salesman a US ten dollar bill and waited for my change. He
    asked me how I was fixed for sport socks and placed a
    bundle (probably 10 pairs) on the counter. I said
    I’m OK and still waited for my change. He puts
    another bundle of sport socks on the counter, still no
    change. I hesitate, he places a third bundle on the
    counter. I think he is not going to let that US ten get
    away from him. It became amusing to me the way it was
    turning our, when I should have been angry at the
    salesman. I finally took the several bundle of sports
    socks, the salesman kept my US ten and I have still a good
    supply of Korean sport socks (one size fits all).

    As an American of Japanese decent we were not permitted to
    enter the US military service. In fact the ones who were
    in the service were given early discharges, except the few
    that fell through the cracks.

    Later when the all Japanese-American Regimental Combat
    Team was formed we were permitted to volunteer to join. I
    was attending college at the time and was later drafted at
    Ft Leavenworth, KS. I was given the Japanese language test
    (we all took the test) but I did not pass so I went to
    Infantry basic training in CampShelby, Hattiesburg,
    Mississippi. On my first pass to Hattiesburg I got off the
    bus and had to use the restroom. I only saw signs for
    BLACKS ONLY and WHITES ONLY but nothing in between. My
    first experience in the segregated south. I used the
    toilet in the local USO which had no colour bar.

    Upon finishing basic training I volunteered for the
    Paratroopers, mainly because I could double my pay (Jump
    Pay was $50.00) My parents and younger siblings were in a
    government operated concentration camp near Cody, Wyoming
    with any income so I was sending them part of my pay check
    each month. They could purchase some items in the camp
    canteen or order from the catalogue sales or ask their
    friends to do the shopping for them outside the camp.

    After the war I transferred over to the newly formed US
    Air force and completed my 20 years of military service. I
    joined the Lions Club soon after I retired and one of the
    projects we had was collecting donated eye glasses. No one
    could tell me what happened to the eye glasses after we
    collected them.

    I later discovered that the Volunteer Optometric Services
    to Humanity (VOSH) a group of eye doctors and lay
    personnel actually go on eye care missions to third world
    countries to examine patients and give out recycled eye
    glasses, at no cost. I have been on some 16 eye care
    missions to some very interesting places, such as India,
    Thailand, Ecuador, Peru, Paraguay, Bulgaria, Ukraine,
    Russia, Guatemala, Honduras, Mexico and many other
    countries.

    I must point out that we do pay our own way but sometimes
    we get reduced air fare or our sponsoring organization may
    take care of food and lodging. On each trip we have the
    option of taking a side trip to visit some interesting
    places.

    Mac and Stanley Sagara

    I also joined Friendship Force International, an
    organization started by Pres Jimmy Carter. There are clubs
    all over the world. We visit other club members as a group
    and they in turn visit other clubs around the world by
    mutual agreement. Usually a week of hosted family visits.
    I went with the club to Russia for three weeks and on
    another trip I went to Freiberg, Germany in the Black
    Forest and to Oltzysn, Poland where we met some very nice
    people who really like Americans.

    Apparently I do not have a face that people think of as
    typical American. Although I tell them I’m from
    America they still question my origin so to make it
    uncomplicated I just tell them “Mongolia”
    which satisfies their curiosity. There is more to this
    story, but this will have to do for now. Maybe later
    I’ll think up some more things about my travels.
    Stanley Mataichi Sagara (the Mongolian).

    Footnote by Mac: The ‘Arab’ in the picture is
    Stanley Sagara. He brought the Arab outfit in Tangiers and
    it is genuine although I think it is Palestine rather than
    Moroccan garb Another friend William “Mike”
    Westfall took the picture and put in the caption. It was
    taken at our small AFRH-W Halloween Party. We do not dress
    like that every day (I do but not the others!)

    If you would like to contact Stanley, he is happy to
    answer e-mails on: smsagara2@aol.com

  • An Appeal for Help in Rwanda by Michael Rakower

    Here is an appeal by Michael on behalf of the American Friends for the
    Kigali Public Library (the AFKPL) for help creating Rwanda’s first public
    library. Michael is a regular contributor to the Globetrotters e-newsletter.

    My wife and I recently returned to the United States from a one-year
    journey through Africa. During the last three months of the trip, we enjoyed
    the privilege of working in the Prosecutor’s Office of the United
    Nations International Criminal Tribunal for Rwanda. As part of the job,
    I poured through reams of scholarly texts, investigators’ reports
    and trial transcripts and interviewed witnesses during two trips to Rwanda.
    The more I learned, the more shocked and disgusted I became. The more
    I thought about the events that occurred, the more I questioned humankind’s
    decency, its purpose, and its future. In Rwanda, I met with a man who
    watched his mother bludgeoned to death, with a woman repeatedly raped
    and with a man who snuck his family across the Congolese border in oil
    drums. Even now, I sometimes lie awake wondering what is wrong with all
    of us. How can we allow these things to occur? Who among us is willing
    to participate in such acts? Who among us seeks to profit?

    My understanding of the Rwandan genocide developed in stages. After
    reading about the country’s cultural history and the events that
    occurred leading up to and during the genocide, I finally started to comprehend
    what these murderers sought to accomplish. It may sound naïve and
    even a bit stupid, but until that point I never could comprehend one person’s
    desire to destroy another. Suddenly, the events of the Holocaust, which
    I had read about, spoken about and felt sorrow over for years, took on
    a cold reality. For the first time, my brain clicked into focus and I
    understood the mindset of a people that sought to destroy systematically
    the entire population of its self-defined enemy.

    With this realization in mind, I visited Rwanda and saw a country devastated
    by its own havoc. Years after the tragedy, a palpable sense of ruin hangs
    in the air. Commerce functions at a virtual standstill. Street hawkers
    carry a threatening gleam in their eyes. Were they once machete-wielding
    murderers? You can’t help but wonder. Bullet-ridden, pock-marked
    homes and sidewalks with bullet casings protruding from the ground are
    common sightings. One senses that so many of Rwanda’s people fell
    so far below the edge of decency that they no longer know how to live
    without abuse. One wonders what will be the next phase in the struggle
    between the Rwandan people. Then one realizes that the simmering depravity
    that plagues Rwanda is not localized to that country. So much of Africa
    has endured horrific violence. Rwanda’s western neighbour, the Democratic
    Republic of the Congo, is the inspiration for Joseph Conrad’s Heart
    of Darkness.

    Having returned to the United States armed with little but a sense of
    helplessness and the desire to cause positive change, I teamed up with
    some dedicated people and joined the American Friends for the Kigali Public
    Library (the “AFKPL”). In connection with a Rwandan chapter
    of the Rotary Club, we are working to build Rwanda’s first public
    library. It is our hope that the library will serve as a place of solace
    for the wounded, a haven of intellectual growth for the curious and bedrock
    of enlightenment for all. We have already begun construction on the library,
    obtained commitments for book donations from publishers and we have raised
    approximately $750,000 of our $1,200,000 budget.

    If anyone would like to donate his or her time, money or books to the
    cause, please do not hesitate to contact me at mrakower@hotmail.com.

    We have more information about the AFKPL, which includes its contact
    information. If you would like to see this, please e-mail me. Also, for
    those of you living in England, an organization at the University of Oxford
    called the Marshall Scholars for the Kigali Public Library is contributing
    to the new library. Zachary Kaufman (zachary.kaufman@magdalen.oxford.ac.uk)
    is the contact there.

    As a fellow Globie, I appreciate your support. Together we can cause
    positive change.

    Sincerely, Michael Rakower