The recovery from Rock Vivé's excesses was complete and it was
time to see something of Andalucia's history and culture. Seville
and Cordoba were considered but as our circumstances were only good for
the day, the less distant option of Al Hambra was chosen – not to demean
the site in anyway, as we were greatly struck by Domingos's whole
hearted endorsement of our plans.
To avoid driving during the near 30 degrees C heat and to give ourselves
a chance to enjoy our explorations, Alan and I hurriedly set off in our
storm dirtied green Micra across the countryside, in search of the motorway
into Granada. Much of this countryside, rural Spain at its' finest
according to my imagination, was the perfect antidote to a hectic UK working
life – whitewashed villages, rustic red earth, vegetable growing small
holdings, rows of Olive trees climbing away from the roads and a sense
of slowness! Ventas de Zafarraya, Alhama de Granada and Buenavista passed
by all too quickly, as we were drawn into Granada's contrasting metropolitan
modernity. It took all our patience to be able to follow the purple Al
Hambra signs though the city and not get driven crazy by local driving
habits – with hindsight it seems that my navigating took us through the
heart of the city when we should have followed the well laid out ring
road! There again I've often preferred journeys to destinations…
Eventually we, like many others, wove our way up towards the entrance
and way from the noise of modern life. Perched on the cooler foothills
of the Sierra de la Nevada, Al Hambra watches westerly across Granada
and is perfectly located for generations of Moors and Spaniards to take
a strategic view of this landscape. Like many well managed destinations,
we visitors are only allowed in as controlled flow, rather than the mass
free for alls that can ruin any experience. This gives the visitor time
to enjoy the site and gave us time to enjoy one of Spain's greatest
attributes – a lazy lunch outdoors! As when approaching Rome's antiquities,
we were caught by fortune tellers on the way in to the site – in less
than clear Spanish I think they promised me love, children, a happy career
and a long life…all for a sprig of some unnamed bush and 5 Euros!
Escaping their clutches was probably harder than storming Al Hambra itself!
Once inside, countless footsteps led us along the well maintained paths
towards the many palaces of Al Hambra. Along the way I was struck by how
the grounds are still so imaginatively maintained and how much water is
used not only to irrigate but enhance the setting of the buildings themselves.
No doubt the use of water in such a way during the Nasrid Dynasty (1238
– 1492) helped illustrate the power and wealth of the ruling Sultans.
In spite of expressing such a political dominance, the buildings themselves
bloom in highlighting what care and thought was taken in their construction
and subsequent life…the current authorities describe the art of
such efforts but I prefer to enjoy their splendid practical existence.
Though comparatively young, the palace of the Charles V stands out as
a magnificent intrusion into the centre of the five, maybe seven, Moorish
palaces. Its' square structure boldly enforces Christianity's
eventual dominance across Spain and yet as a building masks an exquisite
inner auditorium, beautifully marshalled with marbled pillars supporting
an extravagant walk way and wide sweeping staircases. The acoustics and
setting make it the perfect venue for summer concerts. Frustratingly I
could not capture this entire image in one frame – my small camera just
could not provide the necessary dimensions, so memory will have to serve
me for the time being!
In contrast the Moorish palaces depict much more about the general life
of the community that existed within. Although the fortifications of the
Alcazaba stand majestically tall in guarding the approach across the Rio
Darro, it is the inner buildings that take your breath away. Courtyard
after courtyard rolls at you, enhancing the sense of peace that is ever
present as we wandered slowly through – if the tourist noise is low enough,
it seems as though you can feel past lives. At the centre of each courtyard
sits some water feature – be it an ornate fountain surrounded by trees
or multi coloured fish swimming long pools. Beautifully coloured and formed
ceilings funnel light into the smallest recesses and small benches, built
into the walls, allow views out across the grounds. Even the traditional
Arabic style wooden doors reinforce a different world, a different Spain.
Now I could not be considered a gardener in any sense of the word but
even I appreciated the gardens of the Generalife. These gardens sit across
from Al Hambra and as you are slowly led up winding paths towards a small
peak, a wonderful contrast exists between the red brick of the buildings
and the vibrant and varied colours of the plant life within. Hedges mimic
the walled fortifications and climbing roses arch across fountains. Vines
climb up and along pergolas to provide shelter, which seemed to please
our snoring neighbour as we sat to take in some of the scenery. Much of
the ongoing restoration continues within the buildings at the centre of
the gardens and yet there is still much to marvel at, particularly the
amazing use of water yet again. Rows of fountains jet water down into
cascading pools and channels seem to carry streams where gravity shouldn't
take it.
Alan and I never discovered the source of so much water during our visit,
but the masterful landscaping of Al Hambra certainly helped to recharge
our weekend weary bodies and conclude a marvellous afternoon.
Matthew can be contacted on: chair@globetrotters.co.uk