Category Archives: enewsletter

Mac's Travel Reminiscences

MacWe are sorry to say that Mac is not very well, but he is still e-mailing strong and recently sent the Beetle a collection of travel reminiscences and in particular discusses some travel writers. Former Globetrotter President, Arthur Frommer (Europe On $5 A Day) gave an interesting interview to travel writer Michael Shapiro for Michael's book, A Sense of Place Great Travel Writers Talk About their Craft, Lives and Inspiration.

In this he writes: “As a G.I. stationed in Germany in the mid 1950s, Frommer had travelled on a shoestring whenever he had a couple of days off. Early on, he realized an essential truth pertaining to intrepid travellers. The less you spend, the more you enjoy. After travelling widely throughout Europe and self-publishing a slender guide for G.I.s, Frommer wrote his seminal Europe on $5 a day”.

Arthur Frommer was my hero and his books were my bible for years. One of his funny stories: “Our first edition of Mexico on 5 Dollars A Day was written by John Wilcock who hates Mexican food. He spends pages telling you where you can find a decent tuna fish salad sandwich in Mexico City. I think I wrote to tell them that place he recommended was now a parking lot! He doesn't like Mexican food, yet he is the author of one of classic guidebooks to Mexico. When you read the restaurant chapter you could tell that he is virtually holding his nose. I never changed that – what he wrote went into print. In my opinion, a copy editor's function is grammar, punctuation, consistent abbreviations and the like- it's not style. A copy editor has no right to impose his or his style upon the author.”

Close to home here he tells of “A young woman named Beth Bryant called us many years ago she lived in Washington, D.C. and said she wanted to write guidebooks. I said write the restaurant section of a hypothetical guidebook to Washington, D.C. in which you rate the government cafeterias. And she wrote this absolutely delightful comparison of the Justice Department cafeteria with the Commerce Department all of which are open to public visits. We immediately knew that we had a star on our hands. She was sent to Ireland where she wrote the first edition of our Ireland guidebook which is a travel classic. It's one of the best ones we have ever done.”

I am reading and enjoying A Fortune Teller Told Me by Tiziano Terzani. Here are some sentences I have copied down. Page 58: it was the Burmese kings hankering after one of the King of Siams' seven white elephants, very rare and therefore magical that sparked a war which lasted three hundred years – the upshot being that Auydhya (Siam's then capital) was destroyed and the Siamese had to build a new capital, present day Bangkok.

Page 54. The tie. Originally a Mogul invention for dragging prisoners tied to the pommels of their saddles. Note from the Beetle: some people believe that tie originates from Croatia. IN the 17th century, a huge number of soldiers and knights went to Paris to give their support to King Louis XIII and Cardinal Richelieu. Some Croatian mercenaries went too, wearing traditional costumes whose traditional included colourful scarves tied around their necks. This attracted the attention of the fashion-conscious French who adopted it as part of the uniform for French officers. The description “a la croate” evolved into “la cravate”. British exiled King Charles II took the fashion with him from France and soon the tie or cravat spread across Europe to America.

On Bangkok, page 33. Spirit temples and small shrines. The phii (spirit) of the plot of land where the old Erawan Hotel (in Bangkok) was built was so happy with the way it has been treated that it took to performing miracles and today its temple is still one of the most frequented and most popular in Bangkok. One of its specialties is to aid the conception of male offspring and thousands of sterile women have come to it with all sorts of offerings; some dance around it semi-nude at night. (Mac: I wish they would be more specific. At what time??)

Laos, page 27. During the war, every time the Pathet Lao crossed a river the last man had to turn back and call to a non existent comrade. The spirit of the river habitually carries off the last of the line i.e. the last man in the patrol, and in that way the guerrillas hoped to deceive it.

Tibet, page 2l. The Chinese to facilitate tourist access have decided to modernise the lighting of the Potala (used to be Dalai Lama palace-temple) and have installed neon lights. This is no accident as neon kills everything even the Gods. And as they die, the Tibetan identity gradually dies with them. This Italian writer travelled for a year in 1993 without using a plane as a fortune teller had told him not to travel by plane in 1993. He is the Far Eastern correspondent of the German newsmagazine Der Spiegel. Since 1994 he has made New Delhi his base.

Interesting times! Happy trails, Mac. Mac can be contacted on: macsan400@yahoo.com


NZ Guides

South Island Guides, www.southislandguides.com is a collective of professionally trained NZ guides, specializing in creating exceptional guided experiences. Based in Queenstown New Zealand, our guides have extensive experience and qualifications in all areas of the hospitality and adventure tourism industries. All our activities are tried and true, ensuring a high level of professionalism and client satisfaction. A unique and safe adventure is assured for you, your partner, friends and family.

If you would like more information on our 2005 winter products/services or our summer products/services 2005/06 please get in contact with us at info@southislandguides.com


Meeting News from London

Our first speaker was Denise Heywood, who stepped in at short notice, and gave a talk titled Bombay to Borobudur. Denise took us on a journey from Bollywood in India to Raffles hotel in Singapore, we saw pictures of saris, flowers, markets and Christian cathedrals. Denise finished with the tale of Mr Raffles who the hotel is named after and who discovered the Borobudur temple lost in the jungle

After the break Tim Burford gave a talk on Alaska, a journey of 2300 miles along the Alaska Highway. Tim took us from Vancouver, at the start of the Canadian Pacific railway and then across the White Pass, visiting gold rush towns on steam engines over trestle bridges and glaciers and old mines.

Forthcoming London meetings:

Saturday 2nd July – 3.00 pm – Concert Artistes Association,20 Bedford Street,Covent Garden, London WC2

NB – change of meeting place and time for July and September.

This is the last meeting before the August break, when we'll be back in September. There will be an examination of Members Slides comprising eight mini-presentations from Globetrotters members.

There is no London meeting in August, but we will be back in September. For more information, you can contact the Globetrotters Info line on +44 (0) 20 8674 6229, or visit the website: www.globetrotters.co.uk


Our Friends Ryanair

Ryanair has banned its staff from charging their mobile (cell) phones at work, saying it is an inappropriate use of office time. A UK newspaper reported that staff were “furious” about the rule. However, a Ryanair spokeswoman said no-one had “batted an eyelid” since the rule was introduced about two months ago. She said the decision to ban the charging of phones was more related to work ethic than cost-cutting – though “obviously there is a small saving”. “It's not good for people to be charging up their phones in work time,” the spokeswoman said.


India Resource

India Tourist! Is a CD guide to India – see www.india-tourist.com The cd covers over 150 destinations and over 500 sub-destinations of India. It includes a hotel directory with over 1200 hotels across India affiliated to Federation of Hotel and Restaurant Association of India, a listing of major travel agents across the country, details of the 4 Luxury trains with routes, itineraries etc.


Meeting News from New York

We are sorry to say that for the time being, New York meetings are suspended as Laurie really needs a helper. If you have some time to spare and are based in or near NYC, please contact Laurie on the e-mail address below.

For details of forthcoming meetings email newyork@globetrotters.co.uk or register for email updates, click here at our website.

New York meetings are held at The Wings Theatre, 154 Christopher Street (btw Greenwich St and Washington St), to the right of Crunch Fitness, in the Archive on the first Saturday of each month at 4 pm.


Being Careful: Uzbekistan

The British Foreign & Commonwealth Office advise against all but essential travel to Andizhan in eastern Uzbekistan until further notice. An armed gang attacked a prison and a military unit in Andizhan in eastern Uzbekistan on 13 May 2005, releasing inmates, amongst them political prisoners. Around 2,000 protesters reportedly gathered in Andizhan town square, some occupying the Mayor's office. Government troops are reported to have opened fire on protestors. Local authorities have confirmed that several were killed. Eye-witnesses have put the figure of dead in the hundreds.

Uzbekistan's borders are potential flashpoints and some are mined. There were reports on 14 May of unrest on the border with Kyrgystan. You should avoid all but essential travel to areas bordering Afghanistan, Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan.

There is a high threat from terrorism in Uzbekistan. Indiscriminate attacks could occur in public places where foreigners may gather including, but not limited to, bars, restaurants, hotels, nightclubs and bazaars. Pay attention to any security announcements by the Uzbek authorities.

On 13 May 2005, a suspected suicide bomber was shot dead outside the Israeli Embassy in Tashkent.

Suicide bombings near the US and Israeli Embassies and at the Uzbek Prosecutor's Office on 30 July 2004 reportedly killed four people and injured at least eight. We advise the local British community to be vigilant and stay in touch with the Embassy.

There have been occasional muggings and petty crime against foreigners, sometimes by off-duty policemen or those pretending to be policemen. Keep valuables out of sight and avoid unlit or remote areas. You should avoid obvious displays of wealth, especially in rural areas. You should avoid walking alone at night. We understand that since September 2004 there have been a series of assaults and murders of young children in Tashkent. The authorities are investigating the disappearance and murder of a number of young children between the ages of 9 and 14, some of whom went missing on their way to or from school. Therefore we would urge all those with children to be extra careful and to take precautions, such as not allowing their children to travel to and from school alone and explaining to children not to engage with strangers.


Metal Knives and Forks are Back

Lighters and matches are now banned in airline cabins, but passengers on British aircraft will be able to eat a meal with metal cutlery and to take knitting needles and scissors with blades less than 3 centimetres, or 1.2 inches, long in hand baggage. Longer blades, corkscrews, and penknives will still not be allowed, according to the British Department of Transport. “Airline security is an issue under constant review,” a spokesman says. “There are now enough security measures in place to allow passengers to bring these items back on to planes.”


Meeting News from Ontario

For information on Ontario meetings, please contact Svatka Hermanek: shermanek@schulich.yorku.ca or Bruce Weber: tel. 416-203-0911 or Paul Webb: tel. 416-694-8259.

Meetings are held on the third Friday of January, March, May, September and November. Usually at the Woodsworth Co-op, Penthouse, 133, Wilton Street in downtown Toronto at 8.00 p.m.


Globetrotters Travel Award

A member of Globetrotters Club? Interested in a £1,000 travel award?

Know someone who is? We have £1,000 to award each year for five years for the best submitted independent travel plan. Interested?

Then see our legacy page on our Website, where you can apply with your plans for a totally independent travel trip and we'll take a look at it. Get those plans in!!


Deepest Cave Explored

A Ukrainian team of nine caving experts has set a new depth record for caving. They managed to go 2,080m (6,822ft) underground at Krubera in Georgia, the world's deepest known cave. The team carried an amazing five tonnes of equipment and kept in touch with the surface base camp by rigging nearly 3km (two miles) of rope strung with a telephone wire. The world's deepest known caves are:

  1. Krubera, Georgia (Abkhazia) 2,080m (6,822ft)
  2. Lamprechtsofen, Austria 1,631m (5,354 ft)
  3. Gouffre Mirolda, France 1,626m (5,335 ft)
  4. Reseau Jean Bernard, France 1,602m (5,256 ft)
  5. Torca del Cerro, Spain 1,589m (5,213 ft)
  6. Sarma, Georgia (Abkhazia) 1,542m (5,062 ft)
  7. Cehi 2, Slovenia, 1,533m (5,030 ft)

World Aids Day

Artists Against AIDS USA will be in Melbourne 27 November 2005 to support “Rockin the Square” in Federation Square for their second World AIDS Day concert

Once again, we'll be sending our very own “Star Search” finalist (and Melbourne's new favourite crooner), Spencer Day who will be accompanied this year by the multi-talented Shayna Steele who just completed a successful run on Broadway with “Hairspray – The Musical”

In an effort to keep costs down, we are trying to get a jump on air-fares, hotel accommodations plus other events/venues where we might be of service while we are in OZ.

If you could quote us on your current airfare from the US to Melbourne (or thereabouts) and accommodations somewhere in the vicinity of Federation Square, it would be appreciated.

Questions, comments or press kit requests can be directed to Joe in our San Francisco via this email address: joe@a3usa.net

Artists Against AIDS USATeam SOHO www.a3usa.net


Beetle Diary: leaving London

After four years back in London, the Beetle is scuttling to pastures new. She will continue to be involved with the Globetrotter e-newsletter, so please keep your stories, anecdotes and comments coming!

“Why, Sir, you find no man, at all intellectual, who is willing to leave London. No, Sir, when a man is tired of London, he is tired of life; for there is in London all that life can afford.” – Samuel Johnson

I've lived longer in London than any other place. I love London; if based in the UK, it's the only place I'd chose to live, but…you knew there was a 'but' coming…..like any large city, it has its downsides. On the plus side, I like London for its cosmopolitan mix of people and all that they bring with them. So, for example, one of my favourite restaurants is the Ethiopian restaurant, Merkato on Cally Rd.

I like London's tolerance for dress and eccentricity – if you want to have a pink Mohican, well fine, no-one is going to stop and stare, if you want to have 1000 piercings or walk down the road holding hands with the same sex – nobody minds, or is it more a question that nobody cares? One day whilst walking in the City, I almost bumped into a very tall man with 3 day stubble, blue eye shadow, pink lipstick, wearing a Laura Ashley print dress and Doc Martin boots, and he had amazingly hairy legs! I like the tolerance of however you want to present yourself goes, it's not frowned up to stand out. I like it that we have a live and let live attitude, so no matter what your personal, sexual or religious preferences are, that's fine in London.

I guess I like the diversity of people and backgrounds London offers and all the activities available. If you want to learn tango, go to origami classes, learn car maintenance or Japanese or dress making, there's always a class for you. The night life is good too, ranging from the sort of full on clubs you'd see in any big city to individual hang outs, great wine bars, coffee shops – there's something for everyone – at a price.

Most British people take our heritage completely for granted. I have to confess, I lived 3 minutes walk from St Paul's cathedral, but I've never been in it – I objected to the outrageous entry fee. I could have attended a service, but I didn't. I went to the Tower of London as a child, but not since. One job I had involved working in a John Nash designed building and walking past the Royal National Opera House and St Martins in the Fields on my way to work. I admit, I used to look up and think how lucky I was, but I have only been to the opera twice, though I use the café in the crypt at St Martins in the Field on the odd occasion, but both are very expensive. I like the theatre very much, and there are ways of obtaining reasonably priced tickets, but if you want to go and see a movie in the West End, it'll set you back around £10. The cinemas at the Barbican are my favourite, because you can choose where to sit, it's not quite so expensive and people are generally better behaved – and this is the key to my leaving London.

In London, there is a two tier system of activities and places to go. There are the places that tourists go, like Oxford St, Covent Garden and all of the shops, bars and restaurants around there that no self-respecting Londoner would admit to going to. They are usually too expensive, too loud, too busy and of embarrassing quality; you really have to know where to go, and if you are new to London, this takes time to build up. For me, and I am not a native Londoner, part of the fun in London is discovering new haunts and hang outs. Building this knowledge can be frustrating too. It took me years to find a decent plumber, electrician and painter, and still not found a good builder.

I find London expensive, and I live here, so I imagine that visitors must feel the same. I also think it often offers very poor value for money, ranging from the tourist trap restaurants to historic site entrance fees. Having lived and worked in the US, Germany, Switzerland, Cayman to name but a few places, I don't think we have a very good service culture here in the UK, in shops restaurants and other services. The costs of renting, and even buying a place in Central London are often prohibitive. Bus fares are outrageous – £1.20 a journey and usually take twice the time of a crowded tube in London's traffic. A tube journey costs a minimum now of £2.20 – just avoid rush hour if you can, tube travel is becoming unbearable. Weekly passes are better value, but still expensive. Londoners regularly complain about London transport, but I think we are lucky in having a good network of buses, tubes and trains, even if they are often unpleasantly crowded, smelly, dirty, expensive, slow and late – you try using public transport outside London, in rural areas in the UK, it is almost non existent. Mind you, when I compare the attitude of New York City subway kiosk attendants to the London Underground counter attendants, London wins, hands down for not being as rude and as unhelpful as their NYC counterparts. I won't even bother to discuss driving in London, with congestion zone charges, cameras, lack pf parking, astronomical parking charges and over zealous ticket toting traffic wardens.

Whilst I like the live and let live attitude in London about people's dress and preferences, there are chinks in this when it comes to public behaviour. In the past month, I have witnessed three incidents of bus rage – seriously! The first was a man who was too late to get on a bus on Upper St in Islington. The bus driver refused to let him on the bus as he'd pulled away from the bus stop, so the man walked in front of the bus, arms stretched out wide and refused to let the bus move on. After 10 minutes of this and a torrent of the foulest abuse imaginable, and the bus driver calmly radio-ing “we have a problem”, the man decided to try and punch in the driver's window, repeatedly spat at it and then tried to kick in the bus' folding doors. The passengers and I was one, sat frozen and mute in horror. Another bus incident involved a woman who was either mad or badly in need of help and announced that she was going to kill the vandals responsible for chopping down some tress near where she lived. She took to accusing the entire downstairs of the crowded bus and in particular a gaggle of chip eating school girls at the back of the bus who refused to open the window to let in some fresh air to dilute the stink of chips they were eating. The mad woman and the girls then proceeded to engage in a battle of the foulest language and threats until the mad woman got off. The third incident just makes for more depressing retelling. And yet, I have seen Asian youths give up their seat for older people, but no-one offer their seat on a sweltering and crowded tube for a very pregnant woman. I offered, she refused, like she expected this kind of behaviour. But there are good Samaritans: a couple of months back, I saw a lady trip on the bottom stair of a moving escalator at Euston and a huge number of people stopped to help pick her up, dust her down and collect her bags for her. We are not entirely a capital of monsters, but I do wonder sometimes. When I recounted these tales to my friends, they shrug and say, well, this is London.

I could be boring and go on about the weather, the politics, the dumbing down of our tv, (ironically, the only tv programmes I watch are from the US – CSI, Law & Order, Futurama and the odd film), the British press – we have some of the most obnoxious and intrusive tabloids in the world. We've just had a general election, though you wouldn't know it. Our political apathy is maybe based on the pathetic characters available for election. What's that Dr Johnson said?


Move over Dubai, Here Comes Abu Dhabi

Dubai has always been the jewel in the United Arab Emirates crown, and Abu Dhabi considered a little quieter, more traditional and more conservative. Well, plans are afoot that may change all this. The United Arab Emirates is planning a 21 billion dirham (USD$5.7 billion) expansion of Abu Dhabi Airport in an effort to revamp the city's profile and attract millions of tourists. The new Abu Dhabi Tourism Authority said the emirate wants to attract over 3 million tourists a year by 2015, compared to 830,000 in 2003. Abu Dhabi has even tried to match Dubai's famed Burj al-Arab hotel, with its distinctive sail shape with its own Emirates Palace, where some suites cost USD$16,000 per night.


Mutual Aid

Need help? Want a travelling buddy or advice about a place or country – want to share something with us – why not visit our Mutual Aid section of the Website: Mutual Aid

I am looking for people to join me in trekking in Nepal – Mt Everest region. If you are interested, or you know some one who may be, please send me mail – lszymala@poczta.onet.pl

I am trying to find a trip to the Norwegian fjords. So far, all the trips on the internet are American, so prices reflect included transatlantic journeys. My trip to the Travel Agents was not enlightening as the choice is very small.

What I'm looking for is a coastal trip along the fjords for 6/7 days, with return flight to and from London, preferably Heathrow, after September 24th. The travel agents said it wasn't something people were after!! Can anyone give me any advice?

Thank you, Ipsita: ipsita_halder@hotmail.com


Musical Notes From Rio de Janeiro – "Carioca Music" by Tony Annis

Caroca BandThe gentle sound of Guitars drifting across the tropical air whether it be in the market square in the borough of Laranjeiras or by the beach in Ipanema, introduced me to the sound called “Chorinho” – The crying or weeping of guitars. The music started about the turn of the 20th century and like jazz is free flowing and improvised. The lead instrument is called a “Cavaquinho”, a small guitar and the music is always instrumental in form, but many times has a flute or Sax amongst the various guitars. The undulating but easy listening rhythm is controlled by the guitars and usually one tambourine. “Chorinho” fell out of fashion for a time but seems to be making a come back, especially on Saturday mornings around the town, where the musicians gather quite a crowd.

Carica Club A place not to be missed if you are in Rio is, “Centro de Cultura do Carioca”. A club or bar in the City of Rio, near the club land of the district of Lapa, that appeals to people of all types and ages and has very good Samba, Choarinho, Popular Brazilian Music and always has a first class group and singers. 15 R$ (four pounds Sterling) entrance fee and tins of beer for about 60p each. Caipirinha, a large one costs one pound fifty.Chantal in Carioca Club

Book a table and arrive about 9pm or you will have to stand all the night long. A place, that all seem to be letting their hair down and having a great time as Brazilians seem to do well and I know that I certainly was.

Chor on the beach The only tourists, if you could call them that, were an American Surfing Photographer, who had lived here for four years, an Argentinean, who had fallen in love, both with Rio and a girl during Canaval. As the club empted about 3.30 am my friends and I went to sit by the sea in a district called Leme. A bar called “Sindicato do Chopp” (Union of the Draft Beers) I knew it well from a past magazine shoot and there we relaxed and downed a last drink before that magic hour when the sun rose and my lovely cool Princess, turned into Sleeping Beauty and I turned back into a frog.


Iberia Contemplating Low Cost Arm

Spanish airline Iberia is considering buying or setting up its own low cost airline. More than 50 million foreign tourists visit Spain every year, increasingly arriving on budget airlines such as Ryanair, easyJet or Lufthansa's Germanwings. Watch this space!